Cold Air Induction

[JDM_Spirit]

Hey everyone,

I know this has been covered in the DIY sections etc and I understand how easy it is.

But... I was wondering what different set ups people have used?

Whether it be using the factory CAI or cutting a hole in their shell etc...

I've previously had just cut 3" holes in my previous cars with abit of flaxi pipe etc.

But a few things/thoughts came up regarding my Stagea;

1, I would like it to stay as 'close' to legal as possible

2, I have a mate who has done a similar set up as the 'Pipe', but instead made a full

induction 'Scoop' type thing out of some colour bond. As he is still running a MAF, on the dyno

we noticed the air rushing in was upsettin the MAF when at idle. So in real time if he

were to idle at 100km/h he would be upsetting the MAF into thinking there was alot more air

coming in then there really was. In turn it was running rich.(Only at idle of course) ( ...If you follow? )

So my thought was to have some form on induction that would 'fill' an air box/heat shield inclosure

as apposed to blowing directly onto a pod. I have learnt the hard about Filters getting wet

as a result of having the induction pipe directly on the pod.

Thankyou

[KiwiRS4T]

Well my solution is to use the stock airbox and snorkel (with a highflow panel filter) together with the scoop on my air diverter plate and for extra flow a collecter behind the left hand headlight piped into the top of the airbox. Thta's what I had on my last RS4 but so far I haven't added the extra collecter - just relying on the stock airbox, snorkel and air diverter scoop.

[66yostagea]

I've used the DIY cold air deflector with a Red Line hi flo oiled panel filter. I put some sticky backed foam around the standard air scoop to keep any hot air out.

[Tangles]

not using a heatshield at the moment

simply a pod filter sucking in air from one of the intercooler holes underneath, and also from the standard snorkel air feed

hasnt been an issue so far, Im in adelaide where it's above 40degrees now and then and havent had an issue, 240kw too !

[JDM_Spirit]

I was wondering what are the legal lines of cutting hole(s) into the shell?

My main thought regarding the cutting is not so much legal side of things... more

insurance concerns. If I was to have a front end, and they say that due to the hole(s)

the structural integrity was altered by me removing part of the shell?

Thus why I was investigating other needs/methods/styles etc...

I may add, for the moment I still retain the factory smic, but intend on using a 'turn flow' cooler,

so the piping will still follow the factory set up. So I wont be able to utilize the factory holes.

Edited November 22, 2009 by JDM_Spirit

[Nic_A31]

Cutting the shell probably breaches legal concerns, your best bet is to switch to a factory GTR FMIC, and use the SMIC pipe holes for cold air.

On a non GTR front bar, you'll notice holes where the GTR cooler would go, likewise, in the shell of a nonturbo, you can see the circle there (just needs to be cut out), and the holes pre-drilled.

Got my ceffy with a K&N M's pod, but an exhaust leak quickly clogged it, given it a good clean a few times with no luck, for the time being I'm using a cold air snorkel and the top half of the stock air box, sitting over the pod...atleast directs some cold are onto it. Switching to FMIC and going to use flex pipe going down into the bumper where the SMIC was. Use some fly-wire type mesh on the front of the pipe, and run a few bends with some small drains to stop water and shit climbing up.

[KiwiRS4T]

You don't need to cut holes. If you use the factory snorkle that wil supply enough air. If you want more there is plenty getting past the lh headlight. This applies whether you use the factory airbox or put a pod on and build an airbox around it.

The advantage of the stealth type fmic that quite a few of us have is that you can use the existing piping instead of cutting a hole and relocating the battery and either running piping across the top of your engine or getting a forward facing plenum.