Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, No longer have a skyline but know these boards are excellent for getting accurate non BS responses.

I currently own a 2005 Holden Rodeo LT, I have the following system in the car:

Pioneer DVD head unit - flip out

1 x 600W 4-channel pioneer amp - new type

1 x 1200W Pioneer monoblock amp for the sub - new type

1 x Pair of Pioneer Splits TS-D1720C's

1 x Kicker 12" Sub

I want to know if i can run another set of TS-D1720C's off of the Pioneer 600W four channel amp without affecting the sound quality, volume and clarity?

I love the setup I have but there is no point having spent all the money I have to be running distorted crappy stock speakers in the rear doors.

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

And I also would like some advice on running a fold down screen for the rear seats as I have a daughter that gets very unhappy on long trips as she cant see the front screen.

How are these mounted to the roof?

do you need to explain something better or am i missing something ?

what concerns you about running 4 speakers off a 4 channel amp ?

have seen the screens that strap back to the head rest . think they pretty cheap

Edited by lachlanw

my concerns are will the 600W amp be enough to successfully power the 4 component speakers?

Powering the speakers is one thing making them sound good is another? Does the amp have enough power to power the 2 sets of splits well?

If thats 600w RMS (4 x 150w) then you won't have a problem. It's unlikely you will ever use it to it's fullest potential so you will have plenty of power on tap.

If it were me I'd disconnect the rears and bridge the amp to run the fronts. Alternatevely you could keep it 4Ch and run the front active (without crossovers) if the head unit has the capabilities

Edited by mosoto

BWAHAHAAH! the day that pioneer made an amp that made anywhere near that power i'd be seriously surprised.

1. yes, you can run another set of those speakers in the rear

2. you wouldnt however, as it's a waste of money to put splits in the rear

3. go and buy a set of TSA1683S, perfect for your rear doors.

a roof mount screen is fits to the metal light bracket behind the roof lining. it goes in place of the light.

best roof mount on the market is the Alpine PKG-RSE2. $1399 RRP, comes with remote, 3x IR Headphones, 3 Year Warranty (when professionally fitted). Easily the best picture quality out there, and plays most pirate formats.

So its 300watt RMS then, bridged 2 x 150watt using the passive crossovers will be plenty of power. Forget the rears, your daughter would be better running headphones off a dedicated rear screen, then you can still listen to music in the front.

well said, its a good system for what i want. Does the job well. Have just noticed when sitting in the back all you can hear is bass. Not exactly comfortable for anyone but i suppose some cheaper speakers would do the job. Cheers guys.

more then enough power , you can run 8 splits or a few subs too, depends on your OHM Loads and freq it happens at.

but thats more then you asked

in case you didnt know most amps are true ratings these days if there any good

http://www.ce.org/Standards/3108.asp

The amplifier power for mobile electronics logo indicates that a car amplifier has been tested to CEA-2006-A, Testing & Measurement Methods for Mobile Audio Amplifiers. The standard requires that the manufacturers report at least three ratings: primary power output in watts, total harmonic distortion plus noise and signal to noise ratio.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...