Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Pump / Electrical Issue ?

AFTDRK

By AFTDRK,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

AFTDRK Rising Star

AFTDRK

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello sau,

been having an issue with my car lately,

sometimes it starts, most of the time it doesnt

when i go to start the car, the starter motor works but the car wont fire up

ive had raa (roadside assistance) come to check it out, but they always say the fuel pump is faulty/does not work

which i do not think is the case as the car will somedays randomly start up (when i say randomly i mean 1 in 20 times), but whatever is stopping the pump from functioning chooses when to allow it to.

ive had a mechanic look at it and an auto electrician, both could not find any problems.

The car had done this before on my original fuel pump, which led me to believe i needed a new pump, but upon recent replacement to a walbro pump im having the same issue!

thanks in advance for any input

-p.a

Edited by AFTDRK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297641-fuel-pump-electrical-issue/
Share on other sites
James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted (edited)

It really needs to have a pressure gauge hooked up to the rail and the pressure verified whilst cranking, can you confirm this has been done? Just to make sure it's not something still FP related by some small chance.

If pressure is OK, then I would be leaning more towards an electrical issue, if it's running stock ECU put it into diags and check for fault codes whilst cranking.

When it does start that 1/20 times, does it run rough? Give us more info in regards to that.

Edited by James_03
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

certainly sounds like fuel pump. take it to a mechanic and have them test it. then you'll know for sure. it shouldn't cost more than half an hours labour to test a fuel pump. so for around $40 you will know if that's the problem or not. personally I've seen a lot of problems with people putting walbros in their skylines. most often they are not fitted properly and just floating in the tank, and sometimes even when fitted to the tank they are still not installed properly. improper install will see them fail fairly quickly.

AFTDRK Rising Star

AFTDRK

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It really needs to have a pressure gauge hooked up to the rail and the pressure verified whilst cranking, can you confirm this has been done? Just to make sure it's not something still FP related by some small chance.

If pressure is OK, then I would be leaning more towards an electrical issue, if it's running stock ECU put it into diags and check for fault codes whilst cranking.

When it does start that 1/20 times, does it run rough? Give us more info in regards to that.

when i do manage to get it started it runs fine, starts up like normal, drives as per usual

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just had this with cats Rb26, turned out to be the CAS. Everytime i CBF diagnosing it it would start then when i needed to move t in a hurry it would not start :D Listen to hear the fuel pump prime for a bout 5 seconds once you turn on the key. If you cant hear the pump, its probably the pump. Walbros are a common failing pump, they hate voltage drop.

Edited by URAS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...