Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've been a member for a while and have followed the postings here. I need some advice on a rebuild that I'm about to undertake. I recently spun bearings 1,2,5 on my rb26. I bought a brand new crankshaft, ACL bearings, CP pistons, and will be buying rods as my stock rods have burn marks where the bearings fit. My question is, apart from getting a new oil cooler, what work should I do to the head? I looking to make my car streetable with some track days of course, so my limit would be 550 to 580 whp and that's my absolute max. The car that its in is a 240sx.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297797-advice-needed/
Share on other sites

Have you not read the oil control thread? 33 pages of goodness.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...&hl=control

As a side note - how you anticipate have 400rwkw "streetable" in a RWD chassis? Let alone around a circuit...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297797-advice-needed/#findComment-4956527
Share on other sites

Have you not read the oil control thread? 33 pages of goodness.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...&hl=control

As a side note - how you anticipate have 400rwkw "streetable" in a RWD chassis? Let alone around a circuit...

This is why I said "absolute max". I may end up tracking the car full time, but that would be further down the road. My thing is I don't want to pull the engine out after this build. Maybe my thinking is naive and hence the reason I have posted my question here, because you guys have way more experience than I do. I have read a part of the oil control thread, and I intend to read every page of it, my main question really is how much work is recommended to do to the head? The reason for my question is that my engine builder is suggesting removing the vavles along with cleaning the head. I know the head has to be cleaned due to the possibility of metal from the bearings being present, just wanted to know how much head work is needed. Thank you for the quick response tho.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297797-advice-needed/#findComment-4956632
Share on other sites

Please don't take that thread as gospel. A LOT of people (including myself) think that there is no "oil stuck in the head" problem, and that a lot of these RB26's with spun bearings are due to poor sump design. Ever notice how the majority of spun bearings are on 26 engines? Much different sump design. Tomei even advises not to use a restrictor on RB's with hydraulic lifters. By all means, read the thread and decide for yourself, but keep an open mind.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297797-advice-needed/#findComment-4956942
Share on other sites

^ I've got something that will set that straight, or make it worse ;)

If you have the head mods done, and overfill the sump by 1ltr - which is commonly accepted these days... to overfill.

Then you can circuit a RB26 with a factory sump without making mincemeat out of the bearings.

Even without the head mods if you are circuit running you need overfill.

I know a fair number of cars that ran like this without issue for two seasons, some have since stopped (not sure to failures or anything like that).

Some still run, they now have larger sumps etc, however fact remains they ran without issue and we highly competitive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297797-advice-needed/#findComment-4956979
Share on other sites

Ok, I'm in the process of reading the thread you sent to me, can somebody tell me what head mods are necessary after you have spun bearings or to put the question another way, what work is required to be done to the cylinder head after spun bearings?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297797-advice-needed/#findComment-4957168
Share on other sites

Ok, I'm in the process of reading the thread you sent to me, can somebody tell me what head mods are necessary after you have spun bearings or to put the question another way, what work is required to be done to the cylinder head after spun bearings?

Clean it, inspect the cam journals for wear marks due to debris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297797-advice-needed/#findComment-4958101
Share on other sites

Clean it, inspect the cam journals for wear marks due to debris.

Whew thank you very much!! Been reading the 33 page post all night while eyeing this thread for a response, all i need to get now is a brand new factory oil cooler. By the way I'm up to page 21 reading the post you made about the engine builder.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297797-advice-needed/#findComment-4958108
Share on other sites

Have you not read the oil control thread? 33 pages of goodness.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...&hl=control

As a side note - how you anticipate have 400rwkw "streetable" in a RWD chassis? Let alone around a circuit...

Ok, two things ..............read every page of the link again and did not find anything to answer my question, my project is ongoing so the next stage is the all wheel drive system we have streetable 240sx running upwards of 620hp here and it is streetable not to say I'm goingfor that.......just to let you know. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297797-advice-needed/#findComment-4958370
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...