Jump to content
SAU Community

1.5 Way Mechanical Diff Centre Out Of R200 Housing R33 Gtst

SL1D1N
 Share

Recommended Posts

SL1D1N Collaborator

SL1D1N

Posted
Posted

This is a 1.5 way mechanical LSD diff centre.

Not sure of what the brand is, i took a photo of some of the prints on the centre, if anyone does know can they please tell me.

I took it out of my R33 gtst as im selling the car and figured it would be worth more.

Centre seems to be in good condition, was a tiny bit noisy, had a slight wine at about 80-90kmh

This diff locks both wheels on and off acceleration, its pretty tight.

It has seen one track day at calder park that is it, apart from the odd slide on the streets.

any questions welcome

will post at byers expense

post-37613-1259748094_thumb.jpg post-37613-1259748496_thumb.jpg post-37613-1259748219_thumb.jpg post-37613-1259748747_thumb.jpg

WARLORD Veteran

WARLORD

Posted
Posted

has it got the standard ratio ?

how do you know its a 1.5 and not a 2way?

is there noise because it needs to be re shimed?

thanks.

SL1D1N Collaborator

SL1D1N

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry for the late reply people. Im not 100% sure that its a 1.5 way however this is what i was told when i bought the car.

Im looking for $400 plus postage

cheers

JiN_MaN Veteran

JiN_MaN

Posted
Posted (edited)

Its a Nismo diff, (or a standard)

If you grab a photo of this section:

R200NISMOramps.jpg

Its its cut to a diamond shape (4 cuts) its a 2 way, if its just got 2 cuts and is kind of triangle shape then its a 1.5 way.

The one pictured in this post would be a 2 way as it would have 4 cuts, but the shadow covers the top 2 cuts.

Edited by JiN_MaN
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I got an e-mail from Daniel, that's about it..

I asked if the standard shafts will fit, because usually Nismo diffs require Nismo shafts to fit. If the stock shafts don't fit I'm out :)

JiN_MaN Veteran

JiN_MaN

Posted
Posted

Unless is the last model of the Nismo diff's, Nismo Pro (I think thats what they called them) then your standard shafts will fit be no problem. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...