Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That or you could replace/tee into the factory one.

( i cant remember if the gauge pressure sensor is the same as the "your f**ked" pressure sensor that activates the oil light when your pretty much toast) :P Pay to find that out 1st.

And thread tape isnt ideal for oil components. Manufacturers of decent quality fittings and lines will tell you to stay the fudge away from tape!

Thread sealant should work just fine.

Edited by gotRICE?

do yourself a favour and return the mechanical guage ( guage with oil capillary) and buy yourself a electric guage ( no oil capillary) which means no possibility of oil capillary failure causing oil in the car and destroying engine. then buy a fitting that screws into engine block where existing oil pressure switch is and fit bothe senders. wire up guage.

do yourself a favour and return the mechanical guage ( guage with oil capillary) and buy yourself a electric guage ( no oil capillary) which means no possibility of oil capillary failure causing oil in the car and destroying engine. then buy a fitting that screws into engine block where existing oil pressure switch is and fit bothe senders. wire up guage.

what do you mean "causing oil in the car and destroying engine"? that does not even make sense. Use what you want, but an electrical guage would be better due to the fact that if you do have mechanical guage and it does leak you will get oil inside your car.

what do you mean "causing oil in the car and destroying engine"? that does not even make sense. Use what you want, but an electrical guage would be better due to the fact that if you do have mechanical guage and it does leak you will get oil inside your car.

I kinda lol'd too. The oil doesnt actually flow around, it just goes into the line and pressurizes as far as i can tell hahaha. And its such a puny ass line that it would have to be leaking for an effing long time for it to case any damage to the engine. You would also smell it rather quickly.

Id say that the half moons and rocker covers leak just as much haha.

the line is under pressure you tools, if it fails, which i have seen many of the plastic ones do, there is a good chance you could turn a bearing, especially if you dont notice. but im only a mechanic, what would i know.

I kinda lol'd too. The oil doesnt actually flow around, it just goes into the line and pressurizes as far as i can tell hahaha. And its such a puny ass line that it would have to be leaking for an effing long time for it to case any damage to the engine. You would also smell it rather quickly.

Id say that the half moons and rocker covers leak just as much haha.

Tools are what you use to fix stuff.

I realise they are under pressure im not completely retarded, or how else would it work? The oil pressure lines are TINY. And IF it sprung a leak, you would know very quickly because of the stench in the cabin. The line is so small that you would need to drive around for sooo long for it to drain a 5L sump.

I mean shit, a mate of mine in his V6 VR4 sun over a pice of 4x2 and smashed the corner of his sump off. Didnt even know. Drove a good 3km at full noise after that. Only noticed the leak in the morning because the gutter was full of oil.

You Aussies are so quick to snap! Its incredible.

Tools are what you use to fix stuff.

I realise they are under pressure im not completely retarded, or how else would it work? The oil pressure lines are TINY. And IF it sprung a leak, you would know very quickly because of the stench in the cabin. The line is so small that you would need to drive around for sooo long for it to drain a 5L sump.

I mean shit, a mate of mine in his V6 VR4 sun over a pice of 4x2 and smashed the corner of his sump off. Didnt even know. Drove a good 3km at full noise after that. Only noticed the leak in the morning because the gutter was full of oil.

You Aussies are so quick to snap! Its incredible.

Mind you you RB's are always having issues with the oil pump so I hear, Anyways I get where the bloke is coming from but as you say you would notice it in about 2 seconds unless your a tard, and I dont think the pressure drop would be that substanstial - and by my standards mechanics dont know everything your only human after all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...