Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I purchised a set of r34 xenon headlights with the inbuilt ballasts a while ago. Unfortunantly they didn't come with any bulbs / high beam loom. I bought some D2R HID replacement bulbs off ebay which fit perfectly, however when I wire it up they don't seem to work.

The only connector left on the headlight is a 2wire plug that runs straight to the ballast, which I figure to be the positive and negative low voltage input side, but when I connect it up it does nothing. Reversing the polarity does nothing. The only other wire on the headlights is an earth connecting the braiding/metal around the high voltage side to the chassis!

Is there something I'm doing wrong or I've just bought a set of headlights that happened to have two dud ballasts?

Thanks in advance!

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298860-r34-xenon-wiring/
Share on other sites

It's pretty much plug 'n' play the plug that went to the original headlights plugs into the low voltage side of the ballast, so instead of triggering the tungsten bulb it just supplys the ballast.

It was a quick swap when I last did one.

Do your headlights terminate into one 4 wire plug? The headlights (non xenon) I pulled out had only 1 plug, however the Xenon ones I bought came without any of the high beam assembly that holds the bulb in place and any wiring, the only plug on it is the 2wire plug that leads into the ballast.. Am I maybe missing a sub harness that plugs into the high beam assembly with a 2wire plug, plugs into the ballast with a 2wire plug and terminates into a 4 wire socket that plugs into the engine loom??

Thanks again

There is no high beam harness. factory HID's dont go any where near high beams. During compliance they normally just unplug the ballasts and remove them and splice into the pos and neg wires and run a short length of new wire to the H1 plug that we use here.to convert back you should just have to find where they tucked away the old plug (normally stuff it under the headlight) and plug it back into the ballast and plug the HID globes into there sockets and it should work.

Have you checked your actually getting power to the look your trying to use?

  • 7 months later...

Hi there Aphid, the problem you were suffering is the exact matter that gives me a headache. I am doing R324 Conversion with Xenon headlights and wired the Ballast up with 2 wires from the vehicle and still doesn't work. Have you sorted out your problem yet?

Do your headlights terminate into one 4 wire plug? The headlights (non xenon) I pulled out had only 1 plug, however the Xenon ones I bought came without any of the high beam assembly that holds the bulb in place and any wiring, the only plug on it is the 2wire plug that leads into the ballast.. Am I maybe missing a sub harness that plugs into the high beam assembly with a 2wire plug, plugs into the ballast with a 2wire plug and terminates into a 4 wire socket that plugs into the engine loom??

Thanks again

  • 1 month later...
Hey guys,

I purchised a set of r34 xenon headlights with the inbuilt ballasts a while ago. Unfortunantly they didn't come with any bulbs / high beam loom. I bought some D2R HID replacement bulbs off ebay which fit perfectly, however when I wire it up they don't seem to work.

The only connector left on the headlight is a 2wire plug that runs straight to the ballast, which I figure to be the positive and negative low voltage input side, but when I connect it up it does nothing. Reversing the polarity does nothing. The only other wire on the headlights is an earth connecting the braiding/metal around the high voltage side to the chassis!

Is there something I'm doing wrong or I've just bought a set of headlights that happened to have two dud ballasts?

Thanks in advance!

Mark

how does D2R go with the headlight? Usually, D2R connecting with the ballasts should use D2 adapter. I am wondering how did you connect D2R with the ballasts?

post-76693-1283918368_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...