Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs: Complete Stereo System - Head Unit, Amps, Sub, Speakers Etc


Recommended Posts

Great stereo, very loud..

Comes complete, what ever i have pulled out of my car is there.

All the wiring, fuses, speakers etc..

- Pioneer Mp3 player - DEH-P6750mp with remote (think i still even have the box)

- Boss 1000watt 4 channel amp

- Avantgarde competition series amp 2 channel, 400watt

- Kenwood 6x9 260watt 3 way speakers

- Pioneer 160watt tweeters

- Kicker ES Competition Sub with professionally built box

- Raizin Volt stabilizer with wiring and connections

- FULL wiring, which includes all battery cables, ground cables, remote wires, speaker wiring (which is all the expensive thick wiring), fuses for the battery cables.

Tweeters have about 5 meters of wiring on each.

Was in my VL for about a year, but didnt drive the car much, so has prob only had about 2-3 weeks use. ;)

Not to sure on a price, owes me nearly $2800 so i will start with $1000.. But open to offers.

Prefer to sell complete..

Sounds unreal, so loud and VERY clear..

29062009181.jpg

29062009182.jpg

29062009183.jpg

29062009184.jpg

29062009186.jpg

PM me if you want contact details.

Thanks

Sam

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...