Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know what you're thinking, D-limo has found yet another shitbox that will never make it to rwc lol. Though the L28 was cool it needed work in my eyes and was never going to give the feeling of an fj20t. I had even considered dropping an fj into the 210. Though the car is clean enough, such a venture is not very cost effective.

So I Found this gem in June last year.. Checked it out in person and made an offer but was told it had been sold.. Fast forward to now and I took some advice to try and find a dr30 already in the country instead of relying on luck of finding a decent example in japan cheap..

I remembered that the owner of the coupe had a brother with and RS-X sedan, sent an email, bros sedan was sold but he still had the coupe and had been collecting parts to get it back on the road!

It has the rare Black interior including dash and plastics, 95k on the clock, included seperate was a brand new garrett T04 komatsu excavator turbo, GT-R intercooler, NOS badges, it is very rust free and quite original for a dr30. Still has standard exhaust.

DSC00010.jpg

DSC00008.jpg

DSC00005.jpg

Plan is to get it road going as soon as the 210 is sold.

Stage 1 will probs be paint in gunmetal over black twin tone,

Stage 2 A power upgarde inluding a Holset HX35 500hp twin scroll turbo, exhaust with truck muffler. GT-R cooler, sheepdog BOV etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299331-my-dr30-rs-coupe/
Share on other sites

Received some good info on paint. Apparently 4 different shades of silver/grey with the same code. Grey metallic is the sharknosed car, and the early ones also had the deep deep metallic blue bottom.

Exact color coding I want. Should I paint the bumpstrips?????

20041111image921011-2-1.jpg

Only concerning rust.

IMG_3646.jpg

IMG_3656.jpg

IMG_3653.jpg

Bits to go on at some stage.

IMG_3679.jpg

IMG_3684.jpg

In need of a mint R30 stone tray.

IMG_3673.jpg

Under splitter that I'm very fond of. Name made me lol

IMG_3671.jpg

Edited by D-limo

It's an S1 Jarryd, 81/82 model.

When you decide to sell it, give me a call, parts are always handy to have.

Your old DR is progressing steadily, got heaps of pics on progress and will start up a new thread when I find the cable to download them off the memory card.

I'm waiting on bits from Fantasy Performance, like bigger turbo, O'ring fuel rail for 770cc injectors, V band dump pipe adaptor, and getting some bits made here in NSW to go with my HKS Hi Mount and 41mm TIAL ext wastegate.

I'm going with a straight through exhaust, firstly through a 3" hot dog, then straight out the left side in front of rear wheel. Ext wastegate is also venting to atmosphere along with huge type 3 Turbosmart BOV. Should make heaps of fun noises on the track.

Cheers, D

Hey D, It was complied in 06. Some stage there after it was fitted with whiteline swaybars and lovells springs front and rear. Should keep me occupied until power mods progress.

Really wish I kept the purple car, could have afforded both, just timing I guess. I am glad its getting knowledge and $$ thrown at it. exhaust sounds like it will be wild. Get those pics happening :)

Exhaust when I get around to it will be 3in over the diff, no cat with a truck muffler if one will fit.

Edited by D-limo
DSC00010.jpg

DSC00008.jpg

DSC00005.jpg

Plan is to get it road going as soon as the 210 is sold.

Stage 1 will probs be paint in gunmetal over black twin tone,

Stage 2 A power upgarde inluding a Holset HX35 500hp twin scroll turbo, exhaust with truck muffler. GT-R cooler, sheepdog BOV etc.

What do you call a "near perfect stone guard" and where you getting your Holset from?

I have an Holset HE40 fully reco'ed you can have cheap, but it needs an wastegate actuator, as the one supplied doesn't fit.

Cheers, D

Hey D, It was complied in 06. Some stage there after it was fitted with whiteline swaybars and lovells springs front and rear. Should keep me occupied until power mods progress.

Really wish I kept the purple car, could have afforded both, just timing I guess. I am glad its getting knowledge and $$ thrown at it. exhaust sounds like it will be wild. Get those pics happening :down:

Exhaust when I get around to it will be 3in over the diff, no cat with a truck muffler if one will fit.

The purple car is very likely to end up black & red, much the same as the Advan car in Japan. As I have to paint the bonnet, o/s/f guard and drivers door, I figure I might as well do the n/s/f guard & passenger side door as well. If we cant get a good match to the existing purple, it's going to be black.

Cheers, D

What do you call a "near perfect stone guard" and where you getting your Holset from?

I have an Holset HE40 fully reco'ed you can have cheap, but it needs an wastegate actuator, as the one supplied doesn't fit.

Cheers, D

I've never heard of an he40, he35 I have however.. do you have pics or specs?

I was going to try hunt down a 2nd hand ex Iveco van hx35 in Aus and have it rebuilt.. New ebay ones going for $500 and under seem dodgey as I've heard there are chinese copies being manufactured.

Do you have a spare stoneguard? Also keeping an eye out for a mint lower chrome grill trim as mine is slightly bent in the middle.

I've never heard of an he40, he35 I have however.. do you have pics or specs?

I was going to try hunt down a 2nd hand ex Iveco van hx35 in Aus and have it rebuilt.. New ebay ones going for $500 and under seem dodgey as I've heard there are chinese copies being manufactured.

Do you have a spare stoneguard? Also keeping an eye out for a mint lower chrome grill trim as mine is slightly bent in the middle.

im not even going to bother to correct the numbers, But thanks a lot dennis, ill tell the guy who wanted it not to bother anymore

Didn't mean to step on anyones toes :rofl: Not particulaly fussed if you still want it go for it stageformer.

Onto more pressing issues, is this going to be tricky to rectify before paint?

IMG_3707.jpg

2 bolts. you can replace it with an aussie delivered 30, some are the same

Didn't mean to step on anyones toes >_< Not particulaly fussed if you still want it go for it stageformer.

Onto more pressing issues, is this going to be tricky to rectify before paint?

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/Drift_Limo/IMG_3707.jpg

2 bolts. you can replace it with an aussie delivered 30, some are the same

Yup just go grab an Aussie spec one from a wreckers. I had to do the same after my old man bent my mint original one while I had it off.

Edited by DR JOSH

Im driving up for xmas, can bring you a good grille if you like. (chrome trim intact)

I do have another stone guard, but its bent and shit... it will be a challenge finding one in good nic, i suggest trying to re-shape the existing one you have and re-paint etc

Chrome trim does appear to be plastic. And is missing some chrome. Might hunt down some series 2 lights at a later date, prefer earlier versions over iron mask ones.. Thats assuming the Iron mask is aka series 3? :)

Might start a new thread with some paint/body queries after its on the road.

How good is your chrome trim mag86? Mines good, just a bit tweaked and sort of makes the bumper look out of whack :)

  • 3 weeks later...
Received some good info on paint. Apparently 4 different shades of silver/grey with the same code. Grey metallic is the sharknosed car, and the early ones also had the deep deep metallic blue bottom.

Exact color coding I want. Should I paint the bumpstrips?????

20041111image921011-2-1.jpg

Only concerning rust.

IMG_3646.jpg

IMG_3656.jpg

IMG_3653.jpg

Bits to go on at some stage.

IMG_3679.jpg

IMG_3684.jpg

In need of a mint R30 stone tray.

IMG_3673.jpg

Under splitter that I'm very fond of. Name made me lol

IMG_3671.jpg

Is this car AND the Trading Post car the same, or do you now have two???

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...