Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The R33 Gtst's are pretty easy to get into the 13 second 1/4 mile bracket, even if your an average driver.

The best things to do to make things happen are;

1) pineappples for the diff cradle. Only $100 and say hello to some more traction.

2) A decent exhaust. Nothing over the top but, do the turbo dump pipe, perhaps you already have a cat back exhaust on the one your buying? the dump pipe is about $300.

3) a K&N panel filter. only $100

This with a decently maintained gtst will get you into a 13.8 for $500 spend.

For a mid 13 ;spend another $800 on a lightweight flywheel and good clutch plate (the pressure plate may not require replacement and the factory unit isn't bad for clamping pressure on a light mod car).

For a total of around $2k spend it's not unreasonable to achieve a 12 second pass or low 13's. My best of 13.3 was achieved with a injector issue limiting top end power and on little 205 tyres with a very ordinary launch.

Contrary to what someone has said you will not lose to an equal driver in an:

XR6 turbo (my volvo wagon beats them)

V8 ute

And you may find yourself beating the occasional modded silvia (my car is quicker than most of them I know of) and certainly the majority of R32 gtst's.

im not a very good driver and those damn GenIII v8 utes are so quick haha. I've only raced modded ones so i dont know how hard they are to beat stock.

Dont race a xr6t either, well unless its stock. Big capacity engine + turbo makes a very quick car when modded.

I really should invest in some pineapples

pineapples could help me a little. still cant launch mine properly. first n second = much wheelspin/rear end dancing... shitty 205s dont help either.

i did the usual snap change to second as i used to in the torana and the bloody thing snaps sidways.

On the issue of driver skill...I was at Calder with some mates one of them has a 2000 model R8 Clubsport with a modded exhaust and changed diff ratios...a much more powerful car than my stock '95 33

When we lined up together I launched hard and cained him off the mark only to be run down at 3/4 track...with a few mods to improve my top end I would have beaten him.

His car with mods $38,000

My car $17,000

The bottom line is the 33 is CHEAP for the amount of performance you do and can get out of them and they look great too and are heaps of fun... you will only get beaten by people who can drive and you will soon find out most can't...

Oh and theres the infinite amounts of d**kheads in shitty cars that you absolutely destroy that makes you feel better after the guy in the 911 just wasted you... what goes around comes around

DezertEagle,

The exhaust is a good place to start.

$600 for a bolt on second hand jap 'cat back', japanese motorsport and others do them.

$295 for a front pipe and dump pipe in mild steel

$90 for a basic bleeder valve to increase boost

$100 for the pineapples

$600 for an ogura 4.8kg lightweight flywheel (JMS has a toda racing one for $495)

$100 for the K&N panel filter (buy it when the old one gets dirty and needs replacement filters don't do much for performance on a stockie).

The flywheel and clutch plate will need fitting so there's going to be some labour costs if you don't do it yourself.

With the exhaust start with the dump pipe/front pipe first if you need to buy in stages.

Well for a mildly modded car running only 10psi boost mine goes pretty well against a lot of the stuff out there, has no trouble with most types of cars unless they have done bigger turbo etc level of mods. Yes i have beaten xr6 T and v8 ss commodores etc reasonably easily. Also its for sale :rolleyes:

Gold coast has such a wide range of commondoor wannabe's - they almost seem surprised how far you leave them behind. Melbourne they don't often try anymore. It was almost getting a joke how confident they are, and how whipped they were. Although mind you i think most were only very mildly modded to not at all.

I've spent about $1000 on mods and there is only 1 thing HSV make that is faster (GTS300), and nothing that rolls out of the Ford Factory can keep up (according to Motor Mag). My car is also 10 years old.

These 'detractors' you speak of obviously dont know shit!

Ive spent

Front dump pipe and 3 inch cat $430

Boost bleed valve $ 80

SAFC $420

Tune $120

Total $1,050

It allready had a cat back exhaust, Last outing i pulled 13.3's and numerous 13.4's. On the day i was racing modified Gen 3's with 240rwkw, and it wasnt until half track that they would slightly pull away. I could beat them all until 3rd gear, even more modded ones with heads/cams. Some where running high 12's, most in the low 13 bracket. Stock ones, were no contest.

As for the XR6T, ive raced a ute on the street, it was a rolling race, and i did edge him out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...