Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:D

Anyone familiar with this product?

XADO is NOT an oil additive. Though we describe the XADO Gels as an additive XADO does NOT change the characteristics or viscosity of the oil in any way, unlike other oil additives and fuel treatment which do. However, we do use the oil to initially DELIVER XADO to the moving parts.

Xado - Petrol Engine treatment

This is our top selling XADO Revitalizant engine treatment for Petrol engines. This product will increase the compression in your cylinders, increase horsepower, reduce fuel consumption, exhaust emissions and will restore your vehicle to a state better than new. If you have an old car, which is burning oil, or you are loosing horsepower, or just want to maximize the potential of your car's engine, this is the product for you. It is base on a revolutionary discovery of natural minerals that affect the surface of the friction pairs and it does not affect the engine oil. It is not just another oil additives, but it is rather a unique gel which restores the geometry and weight of the machine parts in the working mechanism.

XADO

I know there are a lot of snake oil products on the market these days. Is this just another? The science behind what they are saying makes scene, especially with older well used engines. Creating a protective coating against wear is all good, but is there any truth to it actually working? If its kosher, I'd use it. But its always best to see what others think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299660-xado/
Share on other sites

I am.

This product uses patented technology (actually, particular mineral), patented by russians. Ukrainian company uses that technology, but there are some issues. Russians claim that they stopped supplying components to Ukrainians so they do something on their own, and results are unpredictable. XADO says nothing bout it.

Being fluent in russian, read ALOT of info about XADO, just spend few hours couple of weeks ago researching XADO. My ex brother in law was researching that stuff some time (4-5 years) ago, got in contact with people from XADO, they were very optimistic. I got XADO about 4 years ago, treated my camry sv21 and my stagea - engine, gearbox, power steering system. SV21 done about 400k , goes OK, original engine. Still got XADO tubes at home.

Well, there are DIFFERENT opinions about XADO on the forums. Some of them are VERY interesting, that stuff seems to be working (if you get real product), at least for engines. I can dig out some photos and publish them here if people want :D

Oh, and by the way - they charge arm and a leg here in AU, XADO is CHEAP in Ukraine. I mean - cheap, few bucks per tube or so (can find exact prices). If people want to go down that path, I can probably get in touch with some people from there and organize a group buy.

PS can provide more info, but tired of typing :( Welcome to PM me with ur number if interested.

Edited by And
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299660-xado/#findComment-4980619
Share on other sites

I immediately shun ANY advertisement that uses incorrect spelling/grammar (Unless its engrish computer translation).

If people have a great product, it's worth it to have someone write it that can do it properly.

"...or you are LOOSING horsepower"

"It is BASE on"

Poor editing to me reflects poor work and lack of passion in what you do, and I won't have it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299660-xado/#findComment-4980799
Share on other sites

I immediately shun ANY advertisement that uses incorrect spelling/grammar (Unless its engrish computer translation).

If people have a great product, it's worth it to have someone write it that can do it properly.

"...or you are LOOSING horsepower"

"It is BASE on"

Poor editing to me reflects poor work and lack of passion in what you do, and I won't have it.

:D

If you're going to sell a product in a country, then get the marketing language correct. I can't take a 'performance' product seriously when the manufacturer can't even articulate what their product does!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299660-xado/#findComment-4984079
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...