R33 Idle Problems

[THRLLR]

Hi All,

I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this problem im having.

I have a 1994 R33 skyline gts-t coupe.

My mods;

FMIC

electronic boost controller

SAFC-II

turbo timer

drift dry airpod

stock plumb back BOV

turbo back exhaust

Now when the car starts cold it runs fine. Obviously the cold start idle valve thingy is working fine. After the engine has warmed up and oil pressure is nice and normal at idle, thats when the idle starts giving me the sh*ts.

What happens is if i'm stopped at the lights and the car is idling it will simply die, it'll turn off as if the key has been switched to off.

It also happens when im slowing down (to come to a complete stop) with the clutch depressed fully and the engine is returning to normal idle speed. Which is about 750rpm.

Once it stops i have to wait a few seconds to start it up.

However lately this problem has evolved. The car instead of dieing straight away it seems that the engine turns once more just before it dies completely and that makes the engine splutter a few times and turn a couple more times before it dies completely. It also seems to backfire once quite nicely and loudly. I know that the car is running quite rich atm too. Now when i turn the engine over to restart it, it takes a longer amount of time, like about 20sec or more. Why? NFI.

I threw out the old K&N airpod and replaced it with a dry DRIFT one. I took out the AFM and cleaned it thoroughly with that funky CRC MAF cleaner from autobarn. The SAFC has changed its read of afl% slightly. It went from readin 0.8% - 0.9% at idle to 0.9%-1.0%. Unfortunately it made no difference as far as the bloody stalling is concerned.

I know there have been a few posts about idle problems and idle hunting problems. But all these guys have usually aftermarket computers and more mods than me. My car is pretty stock and i was having absolutely no problems with my idle until i did the 100k service. The guy who did the service did a bloody half assed job. He changed the timing belt, replaced one of the tensioners for another second hand one, he replaced the clutch (cos i had mine completely fried, smoother than a babies bottom lol). He f**ked up my oil pressure gauge sensor too. After this guy was done i had a problem.....when the car was nice and warm at idle (under 2500rpm) the car sounded like a big ass engined wrx. It sounded like one cylinder wasnt firing right, but once i pushed the revs over 2500rpm it was fine and power was fine but under that performance was shyt and it seemed to rev at between 650 tp 800rpm. After a while of holding the revs with right foot and braking with left (ive gotten quite good now LMAO) the engine would then idle fine and continue on as normal and then it might do it again if it felt like it.

So i went to another guy who has redone the 100k service, replaced the tensioners and timing belt again, new oil pressure sensor, water pump was already new about 2000kms old. New drive belts and everything. The Rex noise is now gone but it has been replaced by the idle problems as described above. I have sweet f all idea what to do next. I have seen something in the forums about the AAC valve but i have no idea what it actually does and what its for. Can anyone shed some light on what could be the problem and what the aac valve is for.

Im so sick of braking with my left foot and holding the revs up with my right foot. skylines are bad enough with fuel economy but when constantly on the throttle you tend to can nowehre fast. ANy help woul be much appreciatd.

[chubs]

Maybe need to get the SAFC retuned?? If it runs to rich it would just flood things up. Just a thought i could be wrong

[THRLLR]

Thanks chubbs.

Ive had the safc for about 4 years and no issues. But maybe my mechanic fiddled with its settings. So i think ill run through its settings and see if there is anything out of the ordinary.

Other than that ive yet to add a few more symptoms.

After maybe half hour drive the car of which the caridles fine. I come back within an hour or so to start it again and it won,t hold its idle at all. Then maybe after 15min or sometimes half an hour the car starts to idle fine again. I don't get it. It seems to do it whenever it feels like it.

Also the oil warning light has come on but it is so faint, but still noticeable....only problem is, is that my oil pressure gauge at normal op temp is actually at a little over 25psi (normal is about 25psi on the nose) and under normal load its about 75psi to 100 under much heavier load/boost.

I thought the warning lamp comes on when oil pressure is low but my gauge (which has brand new sender unit on side of engvine block) says its normal, if anything a little on the high side.

Anymore ideas on my idle issues?? Or my oil light issue?(btw never have had it turn on b4)

[BRUNSKIGTST]

hi did u ever fix ur problem, i got similar problem but my light comes on only on idle and the pressure gauge reads low,

[THRLLR]

Sort of and not really. I'm saving money so I can leave it at my mechanic and tell him make it it good again. LOL