Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm just after an alternator belt or can I buy a similar one from supercheap, autobarn???

head down to repco or similar that deal with bosch belts.

ask for:

Alt 4PK880

A/C 4PK925

PS 4PK955

there around 8bux ea so if 1's shagged the others will be close so may as well do them all.

Hey mate I wouldn't even waste my time trying to find parts, Nissan dealers here in Aus ream you up the ass..

PM me what you need and I'll get it from Nissan Japan for a fraction of the price of what any Nissan dealer here in Aus will do.

And I'll back that statement!

Hey mate I wouldn't even waste my time trying to find parts, Nissan dealers here in Aus ream you up the ass..

PM me what you need and I'll get it from Nissan Japan for a fraction of the price of what any Nissan dealer here in Aus will do.

And I'll back that statement!

Got a quote the following part numbers? I'd be interested to know the difference - transfer case clutch packs no. 3153205U00 and 315361P400.

If you can find the following I'll definitely consider buying them from you- 31346-05U00 and 31347- 05U00 (oil pump drive gears for transfer case)

they are all connected

if one dealership doesn't have parts it will get them in from the closest place, which quite often is melbourne which means they will be there the next day

if they have to come from japan it takes like 10 days though mine came in 1 week

no matter what dealership you ring, they can get you any part you want

i don't understand why you didn't pick the phone up first

Edited by mystery_kid
Got a quote the following part numbers? I'd be interested to know the difference - transfer case clutch packs no. 3153205U00 and 315361P400.

If you can find the following I'll definitely consider buying them from you- 31346-05U00 and 31347- 05U00 (oil pump drive gears for transfer case)

I am away on XMAS holidays, PM me and I can help you when I get back, PM is the quickest way to get me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...