Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will be changing to Bendix ultimates.

Dont do it, I had a set catch on fire when I needed them most.... Seriously, get a set of ferodo formula (DS2000) instead.... rotor friendly and work significantly better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300531-rip-off/page/2/#findComment-5000010
Share on other sites

3-5 hrs to do pads and rotors lol, if the blokes disabled.

Where i work would charge a max of 3 hours at $82.50

Pads would be around $60-$80 if you are running Bendix general GCTs or heavy Duty which is all you need for a street driven car.

Rotors are $50 each for a standard, if you decide on a slotted you can pay $70-$90 A rotor.

Dot 4 Brake Fluid $17

So max would be $790

Paying any more than that means you are being ripped or paying for items you do not need for general street driving.

If you do track days i recommend you have a seperate set of pads and rotors.

more than likely you have a cheap set of pads in the front which are a very hard compound. I reckon you would probably be up for pads and rotors on the front and a disk machine a de-gaze on the rear which would be cheaper again.....

there is a minimum rotor thickens to achieve road worthlessness (ie if you get pulled over by the popo and there is a huge lip, you are in shit).

there shouldnt be a lip. wearing the rotor down, it will brake like shit as well.

iirc r33 is like 26-28mm thick.

and irrc you can fix the sequel with copper gasket paint.

the price sounds about right.

TRW pads 70$ an axle set (ABS sell these, they are a good road/track pad)

RDA rotors $200-250 per axle set (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rda-Rotors-and-Ebc-Pads-Gro-t282829.html&st=180&start=180)

brake fluid $50 (they would use TRW stuff)

3-5 hours to install the lot and change the fluid $500

you can do all this yourself if you have a couple of tools.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300531-rip-off/page/2/#findComment-5000188
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

depends on what brands you are using, good luck getting standard dba rotors for an r33 at under $100 retail, full retail on some db1170gct's is about 89.99, try getting genuine nissan rotors for $50 each.

I can get you some pads for $35 for the set, doesnt mean I'd recomend using them though. if all the parts are new and just need to put on and have the system bled 2 - 3 hrs is about right.

btw did you check to see if you have the shims in there?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300531-rip-off/page/2/#findComment-5015999
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...