Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are they like??

do you use the remote start/turbo timer set up??

How good is the pager system...??

rate out of ten....???

I'm thinking of installing one of these system's next year...... just need some opinions from people that have the system.... or others that have similer or better system's for the same price....

Thanks

Lawrence

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30066-who-has-a-boomerang-alarm-system/
Share on other sites

I'm getting a Hornet system installed in Jan... Remote start, keyless entry, turbo timer, LCD Pager, 3 point immobolioser, shock sensor, proximity sensor.... all that stuff... so i don't know how it compares to the boomerang but i've used hornet before and it's all good.

Retail (from memory) is about $1k + extras for remote start, drivers door motor etc... but i never pay retail where i get my stereo gear etc... so I'm paying les... :(

I have a boomerang in mine and its a piece of cr#p. But it just might not be hooked up properly, not sure. Doesnt turbo time properly (sometimes it does, sometimes it doesnt), and it takes it upon itself to occasionally remote start without me telling it to. For example I was filling up with petrol when the car just suddenly started, and another time was about to take intake piping off and just before I stuck my hand into the engine bay, it started.

I think for the money theres better out there.

Yeah Boomerang is a POS. I have one too (came with the car) and the main remote is totally stuffed (worn out due to use/old age). I'm currently using the backup remote so I don't get the paging function.

Jetspeed wants $180 for a new remote! This is like almost as much as a whole new different brand alarm with similar features. I am thinking of getting another cheapie alarm from Ebay like the Mannix or Giordan and then also hooking in a phone paging function or getting an expensive tracker.

Also I have problems with the main Boomerang unit like Amaru does. Sometimes the alarm goes off for no reason due to one of the shock sensors, but this isn't an over-sensitive thing. There is absolutely NO shock at all and it'll sometimes go off. Only once every few weeks or months, but still annoying. It has a pretty reasonable sensitivity to real shocks, ie a buzzbox exhaust won't set it off but kicking a wheel will, so this is how I know it's not an over-sensitive thing just a fault.

It also doesn't respond very well to either the main remote or backup remote. I don't think it's a signal strength thing, because I can be right next to the car or 50 metres away and it'll still usually take several keypresses to arm or disarm. The backup remote is worse than the primary one.

I don't know why they don't supply 2 main remotes with it, all the cheap ones come with 2 main remotes rather than one main one with all functions and one dodgy backup one with only 3 functions.

I think they are $1000 or so new, but I don't think they're worth the price of the remote ($180).

If you're going to spend $1k, I would get a tracker or even just a phone pager thing along with a cheap alarm. 100 immobilisers aren't going to stop your car getting towed. Even with the alarm blaring no one's going to look twice! I had to get my car towed recently (long story, simple problem) and the alarm kept going off because I accidentally armed it and it would auto re-arm when I clicked it off because I hadn't opened the door. The tow truck guy said don't worry they all do it because of the motion sensors and no one ever looks twice.

Brant also want like $150 for automatic power window winders. Sure Brant may be the best alarm/immobiliser you can get, but unless you're made of money the $1000 can be better spent on security.

actually brant are releasing a tracking model soon, i think going to be along the price of 1.5k for it. Good to see more tracking units out there as more competetion is better for the consumer.

I'm not too fussed on a tracker as i dont live in sydney like you JimX :( but i dont park anywhere dodgy either

$1500 for the job lot from Brant would be a much better deal, because Quiktrak is like $1200. So you'd be getting the Nemesis for only $300, and this is something I would definitely consider. Got any links for prices? I rang up Brant a few weeks ago and the guy was a bit short with me. Didn't really seem too interested in my business, probably because they are so popular and inundated with orders.

i dont think its the nemesis + the tracking for that price. It could be just the tracking or maybe with the cheaper brant alarm, im not sure. On the brant website it just says watch this space.

So i dont know a great deal of info, but the guy who installed my brant alarm a month or so ago told me about it briefly.

They are still setting up the network and its not fully functional so i guess we will find out soon.

I don't have a spare $2500 lying around.

The bottom line is where do you stop???

People recommend Brant but there's heaps of bad stories about them either (not as bad as Boomerang) but they're not as bulletproof as people make them out to be.

If you're on a budget, the SMS phone messager would be the go.

T.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...