Jump to content
SAU Community

Rpm Needle Stuck

JapFreak786

By JapFreak786,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

JapFreak786 Apprentice

JapFreak786

Posted
Posted

Anyone know how to fix a stuck RPM needle on an R33 GTR? It moves from 0 to 1100rpm or so,and moves up and down between 1000/1400 rpm but that's it,i know it's a common problem and have searched but find many topics on speedo cables and un-answered rpm needle threads.

Someone please help,want to get mine done asap when i collect the car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301022-rpm-needle-stuck/
Share on other sites
dav0001 Apprentice

dav0001

Posted
Posted

Hey, i had to get my r33 dash looked at the other day. My speedo was stuck on 0kmh due to a dry solder joint (which was fixed). And my fuel gauge was stuck, but that couldnt be fixed... So now im just going to replace my whole gauge cluster, which should hopefully piss off the issues im having...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...