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1996 R33 GTS-T

Imported in 2007 in Pristine condition with 58,000kms, first owner in Australia. Regularly Serviced with fully synthetic Motul oil.

83,000km

All parts have been purchase new with the "do it first time properly" approach

KR4 Sonic Silver

Engine

3in Hi-flow Cat Converter

Apexi N1 3.5in GTR Exhaust

Walbro 550hp fuel pump

HKS Super Airflow Pod filter

Greddy trust E-manage Ecu

Trust spec LS intercooler

Greddy profec b spec 2 EBC

Driveline/Suspension

Exedy Ceramic 4puk clutch

Nismo 2 way differential

Nismo S-tune suspension

Nismo Suspension arms

Nismo Strut braces

Exterior

Nismo Bodykit

Custom Front bar

Nismo Carbon Pillar Garnishes

GTR Rear wing

Nismo Rays Engineering LM GT4 Forged Wheels/ Potenza tyres 225 front 255 rear

Tinted Windows

Interior

Nismo Gearknob

Carbon Dashboard surround

Kenwood CD-mp3

Price Negotiable with a few parts such as BOV and ECU removed

As is asking for offers above or around $17,000

  • 4 weeks later...

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    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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