Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Control Question

DuFFR32

By DuFFR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DuFFR32 Collaborator

DuFFR32

Posted
Posted

Hey peeps! Just installing a Turbosmart dual stage boost controller for my R32GTST properly this time. lol

I had installed it a few months ago without the wiring hooked up (so basically it was only single stage) now ive put a switch in and connected it properly so solenoid works (now working as dual stage)

My question is about the PRESSURE SOURCE PORT, on the instructions it says the pressure source port should be located before the throttle body whereas when i bought the car a year ago the pressure source was from the manifold. Here are TURBOSMARTS instructions

I do have the option of running the pressure source just after the turbo but its blocked off.

The car does have a problem with boost spiking and im wondering if the location of the pressure source port could be the issue.

my car is running 1 bar atm but boost spikes past 1 bar then settles in second gear at WOT 3rd gear just cant get to 1 bar but maybe 0.8 bar.

car has HKS2530 with front mount and turbo back 3inch exhaust with 3 inch cat so flow shouldnt be a problem right?

Any help would be appreciated :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302468-boost-control-question/
Share on other sites
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

no matter where you plug that boost controller, it will spike.. It's just a dual bleed valve. I've used one before and it's bad. Buy yourself a $25.00 Turbotech ball bearing valve and watch it hold a boost line than the Turbosmart dual stage.

Do yourself a favour and sell it on eBay and buy a mechanical valve and spend the change on grog :banana:

DuFFR32 Collaborator

DuFFR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so if i got a turbotech controller would it still matter where i hook up the source port to?

Does it make a difference if its located before or after the throttle body?

Last night i made the effort to change the lines i hooked up the pressure source to just after the turbo instead of after throttle body (manifold line) will this change get a better reading? my boost guage is also hooked up to the manifold

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
Cheers guys ive connected pressure source from about 1 foot off turbo but just wondering should i tee in the blow off valve vacuum into this line or just run blow off valve off plenum?

BOV needs to be off plenum, the vacuum from the plenum will pull up the piston when the throttle is closed

  • 2 weeks later...
DuFFR32 Collaborator

DuFFR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well went for a drive to Ballina today to look at a car show, I turned the Turbosmart dual stage low setting all the way anti-clockwise. basically it should be the stock setting. car still boosts to 1bar anyway. Does this mean I have a 1bar actutator? i also noticed with the setting as it was it would take ages to build up boost after a 2nd to 3rd change! On the high boost setting i turned it out a few clicks from fully shut, dont have slow boost problem anymore when on high boost setting.

Basically should I get rid of the dual stage? I wanted to run 10 psi on the low setting for when the gf takes the car for a drive and 1bar high, but cant get lower than 1bar

BUT i did notice when at WOT in 4th gear it would only go to 0.7bar? in second it goes to 1.1bar then back to 1bar and then stays there lol

Should i piss off the dual stage and run no boost controller or just buy the turbotech and keep the car running 1bar

its soo annoying as i dont want to spend heaps on boost control yet cause i need paint fixed then coil-overs then some nice wheels and then i might leave the car alone for a month if its lucky

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...