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hmmm anyone here with a GTS4 had a problem with there AWD light? ive only ever had it turn off twice now and the SLIP light come on as usual, but will go back to normal.

The AWD light also flashes a bit on start up and i can hear a buzzing in the boot like its trying to connect. mabey its a connection problem but ive had it looked at a few times and no one can find the problem, the AWD is working as far as i know, tho i would still like to fix the problem.

Also, o0skyline0o, Do you still have any of thoes parts form you 5 stud conversion left? Better ask now that ive got the money haha. im in sydeny aswell so pick up is no problem.

ATTESA Codes - R33 Regular and Vspec

1,5 - Front right wheel sensor and circuit

2,6 - Front left wheel sensor and circuit

3,7 - Rear right wheel sensor and circuit

4,8 - Rear left whel sensor and circuit

11,21 - Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit

12,22 - Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit

13,23 - Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit

15,25 - Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit

16,26 - Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit

17,27 - Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit

31,32,33 - E-TS solenoid and circuit

34,35,36 - E-TS fail safe solenoid and circuit

41,42 - ABS actuator relay and circuit

43,44 - ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit

45,46,77 - ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit

47,48 - E-TS/ABS control unit power supply and circuit

51,52 - E-TS actuator motor and circuit

53,54 - Pressure switch and circuit

55 - Air bleed switch and circuit

56 - E-TS oil level switch and circuit

61 - FR and RR G sensor 1 and circuit

62 - FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit

63 - FR and RR G sensor 1 or 2 and circuit

64 - G sensor 1 power supply and circuit

65 - G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit

66 - Side G sensor and circuit

75 - Throttle position sensor and circuit and sensor

Are you sure that is what you are getting?

Also the buzzing in the boot, sure its not the fuel pump? The only part that would make a buzzing noise around that area is the actuator for pumping the Matic-D around the diff and transfer case. Its a $4500 part that rarely breaks so i wouldnt worry.

You should get the system COMPLEATLY bleed the propper way and then new fluid in there to eliminate that option.

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