Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone run these Tein coilovers in their Stags?

Type CS WGNC34 DSN78-R1SS3

I'm looking at buying a pair & wanted to hear people's opinions who have them in their Stags.

I have a Series 2 RS Four S.

Cheers,

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303796-coilover-question/
Share on other sites

Just looked them up on the Nengun site where they are listed as discontinued. Are these a 2nd hand pair? They are advertised as being built for comfort (4kg front and rear) as well as improving handling but they appear to be fully adjustable as to damping and ride height so I guess you should be able to make them suit your purpose. Are you going to use them front or rear and what are you going to do for the other axle?

The new wagon ones replaced them:

Lower end

http://www.nengun.com/tein/basic-wagon very limited, 4/4

http://www.nengun.com/tein/super-wagon better, 4/4

http://www.nengun.com/tein/super-flex-wagon i think they are same as normal flex, so decent for teins, 6/6

Higher end

Just looked them up on the Nengun site where they are listed as discontinued. Are these a 2nd hand pair? They are advertised as being built for comfort (4kg front and rear) as well as improving handling but they appear to be fully adjustable as to damping and ride height so I guess you should be able to make them suit your purpose. Are you going to use them front or rear and what are you going to do for the other axle?

They are 2nd hand but have been rebuilt. I was going to use them front & rear. My stock shocks are on the way out so I thought I'd rather replace the stock suspension with coils. At least then I can adjust the height of my Stag to suit how I want it to sit.

My S13 had GAB Prosso Zeros which from memory were 10k front, 8k rear. Great for the track but bad for daily use around town. These seem definitely less stiff as those, but still better than the stock setup I have now.

The new wagon ones replaced them:

Lower end

http://www.nengun.com/tein/basic-wagon very limited, 4/4

http://www.nengun.com/tein/super-wagon better, 4/4

http://www.nengun.com/tein/super-flex-wagon i think they are same as normal flex, so decent for teins, 6/6

Higher end

Cheers for that, I wasn't sure where the CS's fit into the scheme of things. Thanks for that.

Keep in mind, yours is an RS4-S, which has slightly different mounts the the rear, the RSFour gear wont fit.

I would go 6/6 rates if possible.

auto stag is eye all round, 260RS/Type-S(all factory manuals) are fork rear mount shocks.

The rates for the coils I just won (woohoo!!) are 7k front, 6k rear.

Link for the coils on Import Monster:

Tein CS coils link

Hey Hanso, as Ryan said above. You need fork type mounts for the rears of your car. The ones in the pic are eye mounts.

If I can source other coilovers, I'll let you know. I'd only be chasing the same amount as that I paid for them on Import Monster.

Too easy mate. Hopefully eveything works out somehow but if it doesnt and you want to off load the set, or just the rears, let us know! :)

Thanks

Scott

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...