Jump to content
SAU Community

Help! Exposing The Foreground/ Darkening The Background


Recommended Posts

Im a begginer DSLR user, just wondering if anyone owns a 400d (im sure most canon's have similar controls either way) and im using a 17-85mm lens whilst taking shots here in europe. anyhoo trying to take shots of some architecture whilst the sun is directly in the background which unfortunately is dominating the photo and washing out my subject. I've tried centre weighted metering but it doesn't seem to do that much. Is there some other variable i can change within the camera body that can bring out the buildings and darken the exposure the sun is giving? or will i have to just get a filter? only got a couple more weeks holidays and dont want to ruin anymore potential good shots

Go back when the sun isn't so dominating. You can try and expose it for the buildings but then your backgrounds are going to be washed out. You could also try multiple exposures.

  • 3 weeks later...

Have you thought of doing a HDR (High Dynamic Range) image? As stated before you take 3 exposures or more of the same image (use a tripod!). One image suitable exposed and then another 2 images one under exposed and one over exposed (probably about -2 and +2). Two of the best ways is to use either AEB (Auto Exposure Bracketing) or to set the apature (and leave it the same for all the images) and select different shutter speeds. Also good to use a 2 sec timer for the shutter release so you don't shake the camera when you press the button. Then, post process the images in Photoshop. It overlays the 3 or more images and you adjust the settings the way you want.

For photoshop CS2 go to File -> Automate -> Merge to HDR. Select the 3 photos that you have taken, it will automatically over lay the 3+ images and give you a slider bar to correct the overall exposure level to the way that suits you most. Just remember to use a tripod as any movements from the original will give a blurred effect. Best to do it with stationary objects. You can do it with one photo taken with RAW and then post process the exposure levels and save them (1 under exposed, 1 over exposed and one suitably exposed). I believe this should work for the photo / look that you want to achieve.

There are heaps of tutorials on YouTube showing you how to do them through Photoshop and Photomatrix.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging

I have attached 2 photos of a normal shot which is probably similar what your getting and then the same shot with HDR technique. There is also another photo of the 3 images and then the 4th is a HDR of the 3 differently exposed images.

Hope this helps, and good luck!

post-33011-1265288625_thumb.jpg

post-33011-1265288637_thumb.jpg

post-33011-1265288664_thumb.jpg

Also, another method would be to try a graduated ND (Neutral Density) filter.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graduated_neu..._density_filter

doesn't that only work on horizontal layouts of light though? ie sky on top, land at bottom?

doesn't that only work on horizontal layouts of light though? ie sky on top, land at bottom?

Yeah your right Shan, i was getting a bit carried away with my thoughts on HDR sunset & landscapes and forgot the actual problem the OP was having! Although I think you can adjust the filter so you have have it vertically or in-between horizontal and vertical, depending on which side of the building the sun is coming from. But i've never tried it this way so i can't really comment on how well it might work.

post-33011-1265329118_thumb.jpg

ah. was going to say in theory it could be used at almost any angle. only drawback is that its a straight transition, where it may not always be a straight transition that you need to overcome.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...