Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone know what i have done :P ?

or had the same or similar experience

post-61447-1263696881_thumb.jpg

post-61447-1263697115_thumb.jpg

post-61447-1263697231_thumb.jpg

how to fix it or replace it ?

any help would be appreciated

Thanks Nick

Probally leaking from heater box, pull it out and see if u can fix or prob get a new one.

i would take apart the dash and have a good look

+ what's the condition of your radiator like? If you don't want to go to the effort of taking heater core out you can always try to use some radiator stop leak in there first depending on whether it's a pinhole or whether it's a split/corroded seam. If it's the latter only a new core will solve the problem.

yep heater core, looks like this once removed:

post-35556-1263704713_thumb.jpg

the 2 yellow pipes attach on one side and stick through the firewall into the engine bay (and onto the motor via heater hoses)

whole dash needs to come out to change it unfortunately.. or if your aircon isn't gassed up you might be able to do it via the glovebox area

how do you know if the aircon is gased up ?

what happens if you disconnected it with it gased ?

Well does your aircon work or not? :bomb_ie:

If it does - then it has gas in there.

If it doesn't - well, there is no gas :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...