Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Got it done at AAA eh? Good stuff!!

Tell us what you got done, what you thought of it.. hehe Im suprised you paid 1400 tho. I guess they probably realised by now they were underselling themselves compared to the competition!

I'm glad u didn't go D&T.

I was horrified when I pulled the dump pipe off. Where the 3" S/Steel is stretched over the flange the bottom of it didn't quite get stretched enough. This caused A V raise in front of the compressor wheel. Not to mention all of the welding slags spots that were splattered everywhere inside the dump pipe. The final weld on to the flange was really rough i.e not diegrinded. For $1700 that I paid (slightly different muffler to the $1650 price) I expected a 100% professional job. Not rough slap it together job. Also bits were painted on the exhaust which flaked off after the first wash/rain and the welds are now starting to rust. When looking at the back of the car you can see the flat bit of the large rear muffler. The black paint there flaked off in the first week and looks daggy. Also when removing the dump pipe the bolts had been rounded off and not sitting flush up against the flange as the weld slags was holding the bolt from sitting flush.

The note and sound of the exhaust is nice though.

Im surpised D&T did such a bad job. I thought they would have used an 'off the shelf' dump/front pipe kit because its much easier and better. Looks like D&T isnt the place to go to then. They look more like a V8 place anyway...

I had the exhaust place across the road check it out and they said they diegrind the weld inside of the dump pipe so its nice and smooth. I think the place across the road from D&T is called Exhaust Techniques or something. They wanted $350 to fix up the dump pipe. I didn't bother as the RB30E is 30mm or so higher than the RB20 so I am going to have to get another dump pipe fabricated.

Also D&T made the dump pipe/front pipe as a single piece which was a real pain in the arse when removing it. Well compared to having a flange that seperates the front and dump pipe.

I'm not sure if the V infront of the exhaust wheel is causing extra lag or not as I make around 1-1.1 bar of boost at 3500rpm.

If it wasn't for the shitty paint and messy dump pipe I would have been very happy with the job.

Extremely happy with AAA, Gordon down there knew his stuff, showed me the ressy and muffler that he was going to use and a dump pipe that he had made for another customer just so i could see what the final job was going to look like. Ive got the supercat cannon muffler hanging out the back and he tilted it in such a way so that the muffler has enough ground clearance but still sticks out at an angle like the jap systems do, he explained all this to me which was much more than what D&Tand ET did. D&T offered me a free dyno run before and after but i was cautious of this as when they did the exhaust on my ET pulsar they told me they would do the same but then didnt and made up the excuse that my radiator was leaking and they didnt want to risk it, could have told me when they found the leak untill waiting until i handed over the money.

Thats the big problem, noise is reduced by increasing back pressure - a quiet exhaust is a restrictive exhaust.

Thats the good thing about the apexi flap, 1/2 a second to open it or shut it. So when you are just cruising, you dont get added attention.

What exhaust do you have?

Guys I beg to differ re resonators!

The Trust system on my car has a resonator (offset design) that I recently had flanged for easy install & removal. Bloody hell did it make a difference! With the straight through pipe exhaust note is deeper (very tuff sounding :) ) & it certainly is louder. Thankfully it's not annoyingly loud due to the design of the Trust muffler.

I'd go as far as to say I'm 99.9% sure there's an few extra rwkw to be had with the resi out.

With the resonator in - exhaust is very quiet until you go WOT (just what you need for cruising). In fact the turbo/induction noise is faaar louder.

With the resonator removed - extra exhaust noise/deeper note is noticeable even at idle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...