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Gday guys.

Im having big issues with atessa since i got the engine back in.

i have bled it using the process mentioned on this forum a few times... bleed nipple above diff, bleed nipple on transfer. with connecter disconnected and by switching the ign on and off.

now.. im looking at my res, and i can get the fluid to be between min and max in the top half of the res.. but the bottom half of the res, which im sure is the return side has barely any fluid in there(like 3-4mm). Manual sais it is supposed to have a maximum of 5mm air gap

anyone had this before? do i have a massive air lock or something? is there a way i can bleed the return line or fill the bottom half of the res?

thankyou in advance

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Forget the bleed nipple at the diff. Use the bleed nipple on the transfer. You only need to use the one at the diff when the system is completely dry....pump and all.

Fill the reservoir up above full mark and crack the nipple on the transfer. Start the engine and it should start to back fill. It will move pretty quickly so you will need two people. You can lock the nipple off before the pump stops (around 10 seconds) and get your friend to keep topping up the reservoir.

That should be all you need to do.

ok i'll try doing that.. im not sure if ive tried with the engine running or not yet

i think ive only used the connector to run the pump

connector or run the car - same thing. Just only undo one bleed nipple (and it must be the transfer)

just use the connector crack the bleeder at the rear of the gearbox and turn the key to on. No need to run the engine.

ive done it this way about 370,000 +/-1 times without issue.

Edited by DiRTgarage
thats the way ive been doing it.. and definetely no air in the tube, nice clean flow of fluid

but the return side of the bottle stays empty.

try driving it for a while...then come and look tomm. it will be ok then.

Check for blown fuse on top left where it says 4wd.

Also check to make sure all your sensors are plugged in. You can also help to diagnose the problem by starting the car and monitoring the lights. If you start the car and the lights don't come on, then when you start moving the ABS light and 4wd light come on, then it is a sensor fault, not a circuit fault.

just use the connector crack the bleeder at the rear of the gearbox and turn the key to on. No need to run the engine.

ive done it this way about 370,000 +/-1 times without issue.

I'm going to set up a streamer/confetti bomb and alarm/siren for the 500,000 event. Let me know when you are close. It can be like the '1 millionth customer' event.

:)

Check for blown fuse on top left where it says 4wd.

Also check to make sure all your sensors are plugged in. You can also help to diagnose the problem by starting the car and monitoring the lights. If you start the car and the lights don't come on, then when you start moving the ABS light and 4wd light come on, then it is a sensor fault, not a circuit fault.

All fuses are fine.

when i start the car the lights go off for a second and then come straight back on

  • 3 weeks later...

11 13 14 attesa codes!

i have a spare GTR so i have replaced the gsensor and the ets computer in the boot (just to be safe)

The car has been at nissan trying to get this sorted, but my mate ran out of time.. so its back in my hands

this has only happened since the new engine went back in, any suggestions?

for anyone who has this problem.

I wasnt receiving 8 volts to one of the plugs on the g sensor, white wire on the sensor and pin 23 or 24 out of the ets.

stoked its fixed and thanks for the advice boys

so previously u had no voltage going to the white wire?

What did u do to fix it?

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