Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday guys.

Im having big issues with atessa since i got the engine back in.

i have bled it using the process mentioned on this forum a few times... bleed nipple above diff, bleed nipple on transfer. with connecter disconnected and by switching the ign on and off.

now.. im looking at my res, and i can get the fluid to be between min and max in the top half of the res.. but the bottom half of the res, which im sure is the return side has barely any fluid in there(like 3-4mm). Manual sais it is supposed to have a maximum of 5mm air gap

anyone had this before? do i have a massive air lock or something? is there a way i can bleed the return line or fill the bottom half of the res?

thankyou in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304698-r32-gtr-atessa-issues/
Share on other sites

Forget the bleed nipple at the diff. Use the bleed nipple on the transfer. You only need to use the one at the diff when the system is completely dry....pump and all.

Fill the reservoir up above full mark and crack the nipple on the transfer. Start the engine and it should start to back fill. It will move pretty quickly so you will need two people. You can lock the nipple off before the pump stops (around 10 seconds) and get your friend to keep topping up the reservoir.

That should be all you need to do.

ok i'll try doing that.. im not sure if ive tried with the engine running or not yet

i think ive only used the connector to run the pump

connector or run the car - same thing. Just only undo one bleed nipple (and it must be the transfer)

just use the connector crack the bleeder at the rear of the gearbox and turn the key to on. No need to run the engine.

ive done it this way about 370,000 +/-1 times without issue.

Edited by DiRTgarage
thats the way ive been doing it.. and definetely no air in the tube, nice clean flow of fluid

but the return side of the bottle stays empty.

try driving it for a while...then come and look tomm. it will be ok then.

Check for blown fuse on top left where it says 4wd.

Also check to make sure all your sensors are plugged in. You can also help to diagnose the problem by starting the car and monitoring the lights. If you start the car and the lights don't come on, then when you start moving the ABS light and 4wd light come on, then it is a sensor fault, not a circuit fault.

just use the connector crack the bleeder at the rear of the gearbox and turn the key to on. No need to run the engine.

ive done it this way about 370,000 +/-1 times without issue.

I'm going to set up a streamer/confetti bomb and alarm/siren for the 500,000 event. Let me know when you are close. It can be like the '1 millionth customer' event.

:)

Check for blown fuse on top left where it says 4wd.

Also check to make sure all your sensors are plugged in. You can also help to diagnose the problem by starting the car and monitoring the lights. If you start the car and the lights don't come on, then when you start moving the ABS light and 4wd light come on, then it is a sensor fault, not a circuit fault.

All fuses are fine.

when i start the car the lights go off for a second and then come straight back on

  • 3 weeks later...

11 13 14 attesa codes!

i have a spare GTR so i have replaced the gsensor and the ets computer in the boot (just to be safe)

The car has been at nissan trying to get this sorted, but my mate ran out of time.. so its back in my hands

this has only happened since the new engine went back in, any suggestions?

for anyone who has this problem.

I wasnt receiving 8 volts to one of the plugs on the g sensor, white wire on the sensor and pin 23 or 24 out of the ets.

stoked its fixed and thanks for the advice boys

so previously u had no voltage going to the white wire?

What did u do to fix it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...