Jump to content
SAU Community

Beginners Info Needed

WRATH9GTR

By WRATH9GTR,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

WRATH9GTR Rookie

WRATH9GTR

Posted
Posted

Hi all looking to buy an GTR R32 as it's the look i like most out of the GTR'S just trying to do research first before seriously taking the next step and buying one, power wise i'm not really wanting to go more than a better fmic, exhaust, and a bit more boost maybe a little large huffers i do have a motec m48 not sure at this stage if that is worth keeping it for the GTR?? as a lot of guys seem to use power fc's? and since the R32 is a lot cheaper these days makes it a good time to find what i'm looking for and at a decent price.

so any do's and don'ts on what i should be looking out for in the R32 GTR i've read that the pre 92 model had issues with the oil pump which was rectified in post 92 models also i like the fact that R32's can be switched from awd to rear wheel drive by replacing the fuse with a switch, just a couple of things i've read so far so any more help on buying a GTR would be much appreciated.

Also what i would like to know is what type of internals from factory does the RB26 in the R32 GTR come with ie: forged rods? forged slugs? ect.. is there a book on the GTR with such info? and most importantly are the five speed gearbox much stronger than a WRX one as the wrx gearbox really lets it down once you up the power somewhat.

PS: only looking for a reliable daily driver with about 260-280kw atw

regards wayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305046-beginners-info-needed/
Share on other sites
MRSAMO Rising Star

MRSAMO

Posted
Posted

People will say look for a post 89, 90, 91, etc.

Basically the newer the model the better the condition should be.

Not totally true.

I've seen 94 examples that looks more shocking than the first bunch that came out in 89.

Before I got my R32 GTR I avoided 89 models because being the first years I thought they may have some initial teething problems as with any first year models. However, if there was a problem then most if it should have been already rectified by their original owners anyway.

That said, getting a latter model would usually be better.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the skyline gearbox is bulletproof in comparison to the wrx gearbox

you wont have any issues with gearbox even with abuse

make sure you have some spare $ on the side in the case of other issues, gtr's can be costly

Bozz Proficient

Bozz

Posted
Posted (edited)

When you think you've figured out how much it will cost to fix any issues you've found, add approximately 30-500% for all the other unknowns and remember you pay the GTR tax on all parts.

They're not a cheap car to own, even if you do all of the work yourself.

On that note, I love every single minute I spend in mine. Well worth it.

Edited by Bozz
WRATH9GTR Rookie

WRATH9GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
When you think you've figured out how much it will cost to fix any issues you've found, add approximately 30-500% for all the other unknowns and remember you pay the GTR tax on all parts.

They're not a cheap car to own, even if you do all of the work yourself.

On that note, I love every single minute I spend in mine. Well worth it.

Yeah i figured that as my last car was a jap legacy import, genuine parts were at crazy prices, but cars are our passion and i dont know anyone who finds there passions cheap, besides you only live once.

PS: i hear ya about loving every minute in your ride i'd say thats passion wright there :D

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...