Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Series 3 GTR was the last and best of the R33 GTRs, and included extra features such as standard Xenon headlights, Series 3 design front lip, Series 3 interior (red stitching and detailing), and importantly - dual airbags.

First Australian owned GTR which has been checked out by Protek Automotive with a healthy 220kw's.It has been a dream to own and drive on weekends but unfortunately i have to sell the car as im looking at putting a deposit on a house.

1998 R33 GTR - 55,000kms - White

Engine and drive train -

- Active 4WD

- Greddy Profec b Spec II boost controller ($500+labour)

- NISMO S-tune Coilover Suspension

- Apexi twin power intake pod filters ($500)

- Full NISMO exhaust system

- Apexi Power FC ECU ($1500+labour)

- Series 3 GTR 5speed gearbox with Serie3 synchros

- Standard R33 GTR front mount intercooler

- Original GTR Brembo Brakes

- Original GTR front and rear strut bars

Interior:

- Genuine factory NISMO 320km instrument cluster

- Genuwine Factory NISMO Tripple Guage Cluster

- Original GTR bucket seats

- Updated Series 3 red stitch interior

- Genuine GTR floor mats (hardly used)

- Alpine Mp3/Ipod/Cd player

- NISMO gear knob

Exterior -

- Genuine factory series 3 Xenon Headlights (worth $3000)

- NISMO front & side clear indicators

- Genuine v-spec rear bumper pods

- N1 front bar air intakes / slots

- Original Adjustable GTR spoiler

- Factory series 3 rear R34 brake light pattern + rear fog lamp

- R34 GTR Rims

Open to Offers / No Trades

27,000ono with registration until September 2010

If you want to obtain your own RWC we can negotiate a better price

I am willing to take interested INDIVIDUALS for a drive, however you will not be driving the car until a deposit has been received - no exceptions.

PM / CALL /SMS

Paul - 0401 046 623

post-63948-1264388917_thumb.jpg

post-63948-1264388931_thumb.jpg

post-63948-1264389019_thumb.jpg

post-63948-1264389055_thumb.jpg

post-63948-1264389229_thumb.jpg

post-63948-1264389244_thumb.jpg

post-63948-1264389274_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305401-1998-white-series-3-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Is that 55,000 kms total milage covered on the Nismo cluster and the original cluster?

Do you have any way to backup the mileage claim?

If so I could be interested

Cheers

Chris

Is that 55,000 kms total milage covered on the Nismo cluster and the original cluster?

Do you have any way to backup the mileage claim?

If so I could be interested

Cheers

Chris

sorry my mistake on the thread and i cant seem to change it.

the nismo cluster has currently 40,000kms and i have the import papers with the orignal dash at 60,000kms which i replaced myself when the car landed so i could keep the white theme going aswell as having a 320km dash it really sets off the interior aswell as the nismo triple gauge cluster.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...re-t295365.html <- as you can see i sold it to put the white one in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...