Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If anyone can help,

I've looked at Youtube, the internet and SAU on how to install this type of BOV and i'm not having much luck. I'm confused as to what connects to what. I have 3 outlet, one is at the base of the BOV where you connect straight onto the standard BOV. The 2nd connection is located on the body of the BOV which is near small holes for the exiting air and last connection (3rd) is at the top of the BOV were the nut is located for tightening.

I would really appreciate some help in this area.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306153-skyline-twin-chamber-blow-off-valve/
Share on other sites

If anyone can help,

I've looked at Youtube, the internet and SAU on how to install this type of BOV and i'm not having much luck. I'm confused as to what connects to what. I have 3 outlet, one is at the base of the BOV where you connect straight onto the standard BOV. The 2nd connection is located on the body of the BOV which is near small holes for the exiting air and last connection (3rd) is at the top of the BOV were the nut is located for tightening.

I would really appreciate some help in this area.

Might be helpful if you can say what brand the blowoff valve is, and a picture would help... :P

looks like an Apexi Twin Chamber BOV, or atleast a cheap knock off. try searching "apexi twin chamber bov", should be able to find some instructions.

it just looks like all three are vacume pipes, but i wouldnt be 100% sure about it. bit of a head scratcher :)

it just looks like all three are vacume pipes, but i wouldnt be 100% sure about it. bit of a head scratcher :)

Thanks guys, I finally got the thing installed after a bit of swearing and staying up 2 nights after work. The fitting is exactly for a R33 but i had to adjust the rubber tubing for it to go on an angle downwards near the turbo instead of upwards as the bloody vacuum pipe stopped the bonnet from shutting. Me being me, closed the bonnet and made a upwards dent in the bonnet. How do I know this was going to happen, I'm not happy as to what i did to the bonnet.

However, it has a nice whoosh sound when revving the motor as it sounds great. Vacuums No.1 and 2, I tried with no sound, it just didn't give that WHOOSH sound. It sound like a monster waking up, I love it.

For those fitting these BOV's downwards guys and vacuum inlet no.3.

Next thing I have to fix the dent, Cars !!!!!.

Edited by chrisgero

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...