Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so my top tank is leaking so i pulled it out and dropped it into a radiator place for them to have a look at it

the core was really thin so i'm looking at the justjap rads they have

they have a triple core 40mm one: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=300&page=1

and a twin core 60mm one: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=300&page=1

which would cool better? they both say that they retain the factory shroud but is triple core better than twin or is thicker better than thinner?

just incase your wondering, its an rs4s = manuel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306478-rads/
Share on other sites

i would go the 60 if you can fit it in . holds more water =win .

i have a rs four s and i put this one in

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-268244021.htm

the only problem is the mounting pins are too taf back for the factory mounts . if you look at the radiator from the top you will notice the pins are along the centre line . they need to be offset towards the front . it will fit but its not ideal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306478-rads/#findComment-5066236
Share on other sites

When it comes to radiators, the more coolant you can hold in the system the better. I have a 52mm alloy radiator and its been one of the best decisions I've made. A week of 40+ degree days didn't see the temp needle budge at all.

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306478-rads/#findComment-5066511
Share on other sites

just take the car to your local ultratune and get them to turn it into a custom purple R32

Is this still going?

Pipster, others are on the right track here, the 60mm core will hold more liquid= win. Also the 3 core 40mm may actually be less efficient than stock due to the extra core and the extra restriction it presents.

60mm core if you have the room.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306478-rads/#findComment-5068160
Share on other sites

i would go the 60 if you can fit it in . holds more water =win .

i have a rs four s and i put this one in

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-268244021.htm

the only problem is the mounting pins are too taf back for the factory mounts . if you look at the radiator from the top you will notice the pins are along the centre line . they need to be offset towards the front . it will fit but its not ideal

I've got same issue with my 52mm radiator - mounts need to be offset.

Go The 40mm pipster - less restriction to airflow & Shroud should fit too.

Mine actually ran cooler (1'c) with 40mm out of my R32.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306478-rads/#findComment-5068656
Share on other sites

for the 300 bucks it cost me im in love with it . i am on hiloday atm and on the way here was doing some spirited driving(well going the speed limit with the boat on the back over the lewis pass ) about 25 degrees outside . pulled over at toilets and grabbed the bottom rad hose and it was barely luke warm. like slightly colder tham my hand . i have the fan but no shroud atm as i broke it ages ago

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306478-rads/#findComment-5068762
Share on other sites

for the 300 bucks it cost me im in love with it . i am on hiloday atm and on the way here was doing some spirited driving(well going the speed limit with the boat on the back over the lewis pass ) about 25 degrees outside . pulled over at toilets and grabbed the bottom rad hose and it was barely luke warm. like slightly colder tham my hand . i have the fan but no shroud atm as i broke it ages ago

I just fitted alloy L bracket from bunnings ($6 & 50mm by 20mm) between top mounts to cover fan.

Didnt even bother NSW or QLD RWC inspectors!

Might want a HOT sticker on top of Radiator as bit warmer than plastic tank!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306478-rads/#findComment-5068780
Share on other sites

cool, thanks guys

sorry for my lack of input on the subject but i was on holidays for a few days

just to check, is it deffinately an r33 rad that i need? or will a 34 rad fit? i'm leaning towards the 40mm rad cos i know there will be no issues with fitment and i dont wanna have to put a thermo fan on it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306478-rads/#findComment-5072869
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
×
×
  • Create New...