Jump to content
SAU Community

Does the GTS-4 have Super HICAS?

chicane

By chicane,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Demon Dave Mentor

Demon Dave

Posted
Posted

Not sure. I don't think it was standard, but it could well have been an option. Perhaps the easiest way to check is:

Look for the dash light when you turn on the ignition.

Or

Have a quick look under the back of the car for the HICAS unit and control arms...

Dave

Pva_Glue Grand Master

Pva_Glue

Posted
Posted

as I said before you cHiCaNe; you annoying one.

I've said I never seen R33 GTS-4 with HICAS.

do us favor and take photo of your car rear diff.

then we will tell you if you have Hicas or not.

do you even have light on dash?

R32 GTS-4 yes they have them but no Super hicas, unless its after market. but who in the hell want to install HICAS after market?

and you telling ME I give skyline driver bad name... lol :Bang:

me two yen

cheers

Joe

Pva_Glue Grand Master

Pva_Glue

Posted
Posted

some people just dont get that there are other people who knows more than him, but instead of listening to information given but instead tell the person they are full of shit or gives bad name...

lol my advice to you chicane... next time listen!!! and think!!! ;)

under the parcel shelf could be one of these things

1.Most likely to be factory amp for speakers

2. rear window wiper controller

3.for 4WD ATTESSA ECU - dont get confused with HICAS ECU.

ps.only bcuz you have Fusespot for 4WD/HICAS in FuseBox etc...etc... doesnt not make you have GTR

  • 3 weeks later...
pstanbis Enthusiast

pstanbis

Posted
Posted

sorry to break the cheerful banter in here, but i notice dave's R34 has electric HICAS - is this how it is on all '34s? or is it on '33s as well? because my '32 has hydraulic, and it runs off the Power steering pump. I know, coz when the light comes one, i add oil to the PS resevoire and it goes out ! it's the simple things in life, sometimes...

pstanbis Enthusiast

pstanbis

Posted
Posted

uh, i was actually asking about the hydraulic/Electric thing - i had read the previous thread (i know ho annoying it is when people don't) and am aware that not all 33's have hicas, i was just wondering when they changed to the electric as opposed to hydro.

and my hicas light comes on when i turn on the key - then *hopefully*, all being well, goes out when the engine starts. but i agree with PVA - the drag-links on the rear hubs will be the biggest giveaway!

Demon Dave Mentor

Demon Dave

Posted
Posted

I didn't have hicas on my old R33, so I can' t really compared the system on a 33 to that of my R34. If anyone has a pic of the 33 system, then we'd be able to compare the two! :)

re the hicas light - same for me: comes on when I turn the key, goes off when the engines started...

Evo_Lee Experienced

Evo_Lee

Posted
Posted

There was no HICAS on the R33 GTS-4, one can simply see this if you understand the model lettering.

In R32 models HICAS was included in the 4WD system labelled (N), thus you see BNR32 and ENR32 for GT-R and GTS-4. For other models HICAS was labelled © as seen in ECR32 or HCR32. In the R33 models the HICAS was omited from the GTS-4, thus it was ENR33 and the GT-R was BCNR33. In the R34 models the HICAS label was completely abolished.

From what I understand for Super HICAS there is no lettering, even in the Silvia and 180SX lineup.

chicane Community Regular

chicane

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There was no HICAS on the R33 GTS-4, one can simply see this if you understand the model lettering.  

Hi Evo_Lee,

Thanks for the informative reply.. makes sense ;) I take it the (B) indicates turbo?

Can someone take a photo of the HICAS system near the diff on an R33?

cheers

chicane

:burnout: :burnout:

Evo_Lee Experienced

Evo_Lee

Posted
Posted

Chicane: no the (B) is quite obvious really, the engine fitted. B: RB26, E: RB25 and H: RB20 or more specifically RB20DE. As there is YHR32, YH being RB20E for GTE models; and for the complete picture the FR32, F being CA18i for the GXi models.

R33 and R34 is no different, oh except the HR33 was actually RB20E but they couldn't be bothered nor do I think anyone cares really.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...