Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.............

I have an r30 sedan with an L28 in it as mentioned before...

It has an r30 hatch rear in it (ie disc brake rears) but I have a problem.

The drivers side rear was jammed on, so I have pulled the caliper off and dismantled it and will purchase a rebuild kit to redo all the seals etc.

I have a couple of questions for you learned folk....

1).. Anyone got a spare caliper that works that they would like to offload to me (say from someone who has upgraded their rear end..)

2) Are the rear brakes the same as anything else (with the integrated handbrake) that may substitute?

3) (and I am sure this has been asked and answered before but I will ask again cos I'm dumb)..Is there an easy swap with a stronger more effective rear disc conversion that will give a better grip when using a hydraulic handbrake.

I havent plumbed the hydraulic in yet but have heard that the rear discs aren't powerful enough to be effective.

4)aNYONE HAVE AN EASY WAY TO GET A BIT MORE NEGATIVE CAMBER IN THE FRONT..damn caps locks..)

ie a swap of control arms with something else....(datsun lego?)

Thanks in anticipation....

Buggsy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306587-r30-rear-discsinfo-please-and-parts/
Share on other sites

The biggest problem with our calipers is the needle roller bearings in the hand brake pivot. They are not available and never have been as a spare part from Nissan and when they break & they often do, the caliper is in the bin.

I would be surprised if the Z31 300ZX didn't use the same calipers as the DR30, as the rotors are interchangeable. The rears are 290mm x 10mm solid and if they are you will get much better leverage for your hydraulic handbrake.

Cheers, D

Where is the needle roller bearing?

I can't see one either in my caliper or in the workshop manual...

What am I missing here (or misreading?)-

Rob.

Thanks for the info re Z31,

Have a Nissan wrecker that sponsors my 240Z.better pay him a visit with a spanner or twoo....

ha ha ha

>

The biggest problem with our calipers is the needle roller bearings in the hand brake pivot. They are not available and never have been as a spare part from Nissan and when they break & they often do, the caliper is in the bin.

I would be surprised if the Z31 300ZX didn't use the same calipers as the DR30, as the rotors are interchangeable. The rears are 290mm x 10mm solid and if they are you will get much better leverage for your hydraulic handbrake.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...