Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've got some heat reflective foam left over from my CAI partition that I done.

These will fit a HKS air filter in a R33 GTS-t beautifully (see pic).

I'm really not sure if they will fit any other airfilter though, but if you like I can NOT cut the hole for the airfilter.

These have a side that is angled and a top. The filter will breath from around the headlight.

These are simular to the ones sold for $90 but mine has a top as well :D

Cost is $40 and buy will have to pay postage otherwise I'll make zero money out of it :P:)

The pic is of the metal one that I made, but the reflective foam is the same design.

Whatdoyareckon?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3066-hks-air-filter-cai-partitions/
Share on other sites

Thejackal,

Your PM box is full. I'll have it sent off by the weekend.

The biggest difference I noticed is when your sitting at the lights for a few minutes. Without the partition the car seemed to take off pretty sluggish and would take about 20 seconds to come back to normal. This must have been because of al the hot air it was breathing.

With the partition in, the sluggishness (is that a word?) is gone and there is max power straight away. Just what you need when a WRX pulls up next to you at a red light :P:D:)

J

Originally posted by MrSnrub

Oh yeah but i have a blitz mesh airfilter so it maybe a different size?  

Also is there a hole to run a pipe from the front bar up ?

Ben

Oi ben Let me know if it fits on yours, I have same filter as yours so I'll take one if it fits...

Man that's nice clean partition I ever seen

cheers

Joe

MrSnrub & PVA_Glue,

Guys I'm really not sure if the Blitz filter will fit in the partition. The HKS filters aren't very tall but are very fat (round) to increase flow.

Have a look at the pic I've attached to this reply and you can make up your own mind if the Blitz will fit or not. The pic is of the partition without the lid on. I'm just not sure cause I've never seen a Blitz filter before :P :confused:

Ben - If your worried about air flow you can do what I've done and cut a hole in the inner guard to let more air in. No crap comes through the hole. I'm sure it would be fine without the hole, but I just wanted to make sure.

BTW: the first pic is of the metal partition that I've made, and the ones that I'm getting rid of are foam backed with heat reflective foil, but are excatly the same design. Just so you know.

I can make the metal ones if you want, but they will cost around the $150 mark cause I have to buy the metal and it will take at least a few hours to make 1 :eek: :eek:

Looking at the foam I have left, I should have enough for 2 or maaaaaybeeee 3 more.

J

ok just got one installed 2day thankz skyline33 :D and interested in that cold box of yourz....is it hard 2 put on the pod filter? Also how much performance will I get out of this?

Leon.

Have you driven your car with the pod on yet? It makes a great sound hay :D

The partition is relativly easy to put on, if your handy with a spanner you'll have no problems. You'll need to take the pod off to put the partition on. And if your fussy you could take the cross over pipe off too. But the easiest way would to make a small cut at the botom of the foam partition so you can slip it around the pipe.

Then run a bead of silicon around the edge of the partition where the top sits on. This will seal it and keep it in place.

I'm not sure how much you've driven your car with the pod on, but you'll notice that if your stopped at the lights for a few minutes and then take off fast, the car will be sluggish for the first bit, this is cause it's breathing in hot air which slows the car down. Using this it will breath colder air from around the headlight.

All up it would take about 30 minutes to put in.

I can send you a few more pics if you want to check it out.

Jayson

Yepp, no problems.

Have a look here:

http://www.users.bigpond.com/jayson77/

It's funny cause I closed my Bigpond account a few months ago, but my old web site is still working !!!

BTW: Just remember that the pics are of the metal partition I made, but the foam one is the same design, just foam backed with heat reflective foil instead of metal.

J

reserver me for one ok plz? I've got my climate control, my steering wheel horn, my right door 2 be fixed and my alarm 2 be installed this week.......man what a day has it been already.,.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...