Jump to content
SAU Community

urgent help! lights out..

_turtle_

By _turtle_,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
Posted

help guys, the front lites of the cars not working. for a while now, the rite side has been playing up, wen i go over train tracks or something sometimes it would go out, and then come back again some other time. so i figured because it comes back, it can't be the bulb going, so its prolly a lose wire or something.

but tonite, i went over the train tracks and both lites went out!! basically i was only driving with the dim lites and couldn't see shiat so i had to use high beam wen there were no cars and drive back home.

now my question is, is it probably a fuse?? if so which one is it? i dont know which one to change. i remember seeing a diagram somewhere showing which fuse is for what. but i can't seem to find it. can anyone point me in the right direction?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3070-urgent-help-lights-out/
Share on other sites
Bozz Proficient

Bozz

Posted
Posted

If your headlights are dim, the voltage must be dropped somewhere else. Where the voltage is being dropped will be getting VERY hot. Lift the bonnet, using the stub of a big screwdriver, tap everything that looks electrical related. If it doesn't solve your problem, inside the car, bash the steering column when the lights are on (naturally take the trim off first) and see if it corrects the problem.

Sniff around for where the heat is coming from, noses are great for finding minute sources of heat.

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the help guys. don't think its the fuse, because i swapped the 15A fuse with the one next to it (another 15A for the ciggy lighter) and still didn't work. so it mite be the bulbs, but how do i take them out? i'm sorta a bit dumb dumbs with these kinda things. didn't get back till it was dark today, so i'll take a look at them tomorrow and try work out how to take the globe out. already kinda fiddled around with the wires leading in to them, no luck.

i mite just goto autobarn doncaster, they're very helpful :)

Bozz Proficient

Bozz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by inark

sounds like it could also be a relay issue...

Could be a relay as much as it could be absolutely anything else to do with the lighting system.

If it's a relay, then it will be bloody hot. See, anything that drops a few volts at high current will dissipate an enormous amount of heat. It simply could be absolutely ANYTHING to do with the headlights. Could even be the plugs that connect the bulbs to the wiring.

If you want to work it out for yourself, perhaps go and re-read my above post and try a bit of hunting around rather than asking people to find a needle in a haystack that we can't even see.

If you are a tiny bit more electrically inclined and know how to follow a wire, perhaps you could use a multimeter and see where the voltage is being dropped. But this is just wasting time, finding the source of the voltage drop is SO much easier by finding out what part is hot.

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

problem solved! the wires on one of the lites ended up being loose. the bulb on the other lite was gone. now i realise that the fuse for these fings are at the back in the boot next to the battery. and i figured out how easy it is to change the globe hehe. if anyone wants to know the globe is a H1 12V 55W P14.5s. Part No. 48320BL. $6.99 at autobarn.

thanks for everyones help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...