Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all I am toying with the idea of selling the 32

car has 190 000 on odometer

RB25 with 80000kms was fitted 6 months ago... purchased at SSS automotive

have dyno sheets for 197rwkw

and an engineers report for ALL mods

half cage

new isc N1 coilovers

oil cooler & relocation kit

Front mount Saber brand

3 inch quiet exhaust and come with straight pipe for those loud track days

r33 LCA

apexi SAFC

turbo timer

selection or rims to choose from

fresh white respray

M-Spec side skirts and rear pods

tein extra lock tie rods

adjustable rear camber arms

Cusco castor arms

Aluminium sub frame bushes

mini spool diff

Saber 52mm radiatior

Davies Craig thermo fan replacing a/c fan

water temp guage and boost guage

Nismo thermostat

Walbro fuel pump

tuned by UNIGROUP

Nismo fuel pressure reg

oil catch can

new battery

usual basic stereo gear... kicker 6x9 and 6inch 2 ways, mp3/cd player

also have a power FC and s15 injectors, strut brace waiting to go in which may go seperately or possibly with the car depending

sure its got other bits... will look fresh as a daisy after the respray..

bad points: has a squeek in the interior from the rear trim which i am currently looking to replace coz its bugging me.

sub frame bit noisy from the aluminium bushes and the locker but looking to throw some rubber mounts in to make it less noisy

pics will be up once the re-spray is finished... 1-2 weeks

asking $13 000

or a trade for a JZX90 or 100

would also consider something else in the 4 door variety... must have coilovers at minimum

Edited by ti2l
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307365-1993-r32rb25/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...