Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys and first of all hello to you all from scotland. I come bearing a problem that i hope you may be ably to help me with. My r33 gts-t broke down on saturday morning and i have not been able to diagnose the problem

car just cut out and wont start

changed plugs and checked all coils all are firing

plugs are comeing out soaking so i know its getting fule

car has good compresion in all cylinders

all pipes from turbo to intercooler to throttle body are fine

:wtf:

cheers Johnny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308038-r33-gts-t-wont-start/
Share on other sites

might be an AFM problem.

sounds like the problem is fuel related if the plugs are coming out very wet. it is probably putting too much fuel in and flooding it so the plugs aren't able to fire. try unplugging the injector loom and turning the car over a bit to try and get some of the fuel out of the engine and then plug it back in and see what happens.

i know you are in scotland, so that makes the next thing a bit hard, but i would try and get a hold of a consult cable. you may be able to get something on ebay over there (not really sure what is available outside of australia) butif you can get one then you can read off the ecu any possible fault codes and check things like the AFM voltage as well as other things.

i think that your on the ball got a pressure gauge on loan tomorrow. Should i just disconnect the fuel line coming from the regulator and place the gauge between?

If the fpr has failed i assume that the fuel rail will hold the full pressure?

i think that your on the ball got a pressure gauge on loan tomorrow. Should i just disconnect the fuel line coming from the regulator and place the gauge between?

If the fpr has failed i assume that the fuel rail will hold the full pressure?

You need to place the gauage between the fuel rail and fpr, the fpr is what hols pressure in the rail, if its screwed it will either lock up and you will get heaps of pressure in the rail and lots of fuel being pushed through the injectors, or it wont hold any pressure and you will get none in the rail.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...