Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just asking anyone here know how to fix speedo lights? or the interior lights or dash lights (whatever u call them). My speedo lights works fine, the fuel gauge, Rpm lights, km's lights work fine but my oil pressure light on the right is not working. Anyone here knows how to fix it?

p.s the rpms lights on the right works but its a bit fading where the redline is.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309136-speedo-lights/
Share on other sites

Hey just asking anyone here know how to fix speedo lights? or the interior lights or dash lights (whatever u call them). My speedo lights works fine, the fuel gauge, Rpm lights, km's lights work fine but my oil pressure light on the right is not working. Anyone here knows how to fix it?

p.s the rpms lights on the right works but its a bit fading where the redline is.

cheers

do a search...you will find a lot of infor on them

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Da...ol-t158385.html

or follow this link

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309136-speedo-lights/#findComment-5098861
Share on other sites

Easy mate takes bought 20-30mins depending how skilled you are with a screwdriver lol

1: Pull out ashtray and remove two screws behind there

2: Now you can lift the plastic part over the gear stick, you wont need to remove boot leather

3: Undo 2 screws either side of centre console now

4: Pull the lever under the steering wheel to drop it down so you can lift centre console part off

5: You will need to unclip hazard lights, clock and demister buttons and then on the right side of steering wheel unclip mirror switches

6: Once centre consoles off undo two screws down the bottom of cluster, and two screws in the top plastic above cluster

7: Once that plastic surrounding cluster is out there is a screw top centre remove that and you can pull it forward and will notice i think 5 plastic bulb plugs, just take out the one on the right to fix up your oil temp gauge light

Hope this helps mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309136-speedo-lights/#findComment-5099724
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...