Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Just looking for some feedback on what everyone runs engine oil wise in skyline running over 400rwhp. I have used Mobli 1 full synthetic but switch to Motul 300V (10W40) however i have find it burns black pretty quick (change every 5000km).

The car is a track base car (rarely driven on the street).

I have talked to alot of people and have gotten alot of different answer... also i remember reading a topic on sau (i think posted by URAS) about engine oil and a test that was done however i can't seem to find the topic anymore...

Brands im currently looking at are Agip, Shell Helix Ultra 10W60 All were recommend to me by a mech that works at ferrari and deals with them day in day out. They all use the Shell but said some owners ask to use Agip and or elf. Has anyone had any experience with these oils?

Also I notice alot of Japanese tuning houses have their own oil, i know nismo uses motul but im not sure what HKS uses (if its there own blend or they use someone else product)

edit: nismo motul oil

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...neup/15w50.html

15w50

[base oil concept]

* For the goal of engine protection, this ester-based oil was developed by adding polymer ester to compensates for the weaknes in low-temperature performanc of complex esters.

[Allowable torque of approx. 70kgfm (approx. 600ps)]

* This is a high-performance oil developed, through the use in tuning car racing and drift apprications for use in the RB26DETT, SR20DET and other turbocharged engines.

* The oil has high anti-shearing stability, ensuring good oil film retention from low speeds to the occurrence of high torque, with friction loss kept to the minimum possible level. It ensures the high stability required in situations such as the use of NOS, which can cause an extreme increase of torque.

* To ensure the highest posible reliability without sacrificing output performance, a special multifunction polymer has been used with high shear stability as well as improved detergentdispersant quality. This not only ensure oil film but also provides exellent anti_oil-coking performance, for improved lubrication of turbine bearings.

* SAE viscosity: 15W50

* 100-percent synthetic Duble-Ester technology

* Equivalent:API SL

* This oil was developed with the high-intensity driving of competition in mind; please note the two points before using this oil.

* 1. The product is not covered by Nissan Motor Co., Ltd, warrantee.

* 2. When this oil is used, it must be changed after every 3,000 kilometers of use.

Cheers

Edited by Kaido_RR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309160-engine-oil/
Share on other sites

Plenty of threads on oils... And given plenty of people have 300rwkw these days, any number of threads will give you an idea - because everyone is different.

Here are but a few:

This one is about performance from the first post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...p;hl=engine+oil

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...p;hl=engine+oil

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/En...p;hl=engine+oil

One point (before i close), if you are changing every 5,000km's and it's just basically a track car...

You are clearly not changing every 6 months? You should be. 5,000 or 6 months.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309160-engine-oil/#findComment-5099531
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...