Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have no idea why or how but i THINK i have coolent coming into my cabin from the foot vent in the car and its all over the carpet and it only comes out when i corner?????

My car did over heat a lil the other day but now its all back 2 normal but i just wanna know why this shit is leaking into my car?!?!?!?!?

Plz help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30976-liquid-comin-from-front-foot-wells/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Umm MadGT4. of course its coolant, how do you think your cabin heater works, engine coolant is pumped through the firewall and into a metal heater core. It corrodes like any other part of the coolant system.

Id seriously stop driving the car whilst its leaking, loss of coolant will cause your car to overheat and if you think running an engine without oil is catastrophic, wait till you run it without water! Best way to bin a motor.

Id doubt its just a hose leak, or else it would be leaking more constantly.

Heater cores are not easy to replace, they involve removing alot of the dashboard. If i were you id get the screwdrivers out and remove the core yourself then take it to a radiator shop for repair. Or else you'll be paying a mechanic at 50-80 dollars an hour to do a job that could take a whole day to do.

red17

Bugger!

Thanx for the tip looks like i might be doing that then

And its not inconsistant its like consistantly leaking so yeah and mainly on the passanger side for some unknow reason, theres only a very small amount coming into the drivers foot well...

Um now does anyone know how easy/hard it is to remove basically all the dash like Red17 said?

Although the liquid is probably coolant, it could be the aircon's refridgerant. When I had a leak on my AC system, I took it to my nissan dealer who regassed it and added some kind of green dye - the idea being it would be easier to detemine where the leak was coming from. The dye looked exactly like engine coolent...

if the leak only occurs sometimes, check to see if it only happens during/after using the AC...

i had this, started off small, the one nice winter morning the thing sh!t itself and i had steam billowing out the windows! bypassed the core and had to buy a new core for almost $400! just need to put it in now!

guys if ur heater is the problem u can still drive it as long as u turn the heater off . if u have climate control put the temp on the lowest seting 18 deg .

one way to check if its the heater when the car is at normal temp and when the ambient temp is say bellow 24 c put the heater on at the highest seting thats when the coolant should come in the cabin .

I guess its more pronounced, when the climate control is using a bit of heating to get a nice temp. Set at about 24c (18c gets too cold, even on 35deg days!) i guess that is when its been happening and it would be swapping between aircon/heating to maintain that.

Today - after removing my floormat, and seeing how much has been coming out - the loss from the radiator *does* match the leak, and its bigger than I inititally thought. Even just idling at standstill was enough to take a noticeable amount from the radiator.

Anyhow, i'm on the case... i can't drive around much with this happening for too long, as there is the risk of cooking the engine if it isn't topped up enough. Anybody who is having this problem *always* check the water level in the radiator and top up as necesary. For those that aren't aware: NEVER do this when the engine is already hot, as cold water into warm engine = cracked head

ok, well this arvo i've been pulling it all apart. Took some photos too..

First photo is the coolant that you can see on the carpet.. 2nd is the actual water as it drips down. While it looks like one exact spot, water is actually leaking from a number of places to under the carpet.

Further to wrxhoon, its not actually *that* hard to get to I didn't think once you have worked it out.. You can remove the whole glovebox assembly, letting you get easy access to behind where all the heater stuff is. No need to remove the whole dash.

Getting too hot so i've had to take a bit of a break, will keep updated on future progress.

ok, here is the glovebox after i'd taken it out..

To remove it, there are about 6x screws (circled red in the attachment). 2x of these are actually the catch to the glovebox, but you'll have to remove these also. Trickiest one is the one bottom right, which you'll have to do with the glovebox open, and using a long philips head to get in there.

After that you'll have to kind of pop the clips out (circled green) which attach to the upper part of the dashboard. I snapped one because its hard to do it without doing that :D but superglue will fix it.

Once you've done all that, you should be able to lift it all out as one piece, allowing you to get to all the heater stuff...

This should be what you can get to after you've got all the glovebox out. I assume this is the "heater core", although i'm still not quite sure what that means, i guess its like an element.

I guess i'll find out once i get it apart and/or out. Looks like you can take the bottom part out. Thats my next attempt :D

This should be what you can get to after you've got all the glovebox out. I assume this is the "heater core", although i'm still not quite sure what that means, i guess its like an element.  

I guess i'll find out once i get it apart and/or out. Looks like you can take the bottom part out. Thats my next attempt :rofl:

Yeah that looks like the airconditioning unit,,in behind that is the heater core,, it looks like a minature radiator with plastic surround with 2 plastic hose connections coming from it,,,,, i called Natrad in melborne and they got me one supplied for $250 brand new shipped down from canberra.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...