Jump to content
SAU Community

No Power To Door Accessories

AKW

By AKW,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

AKW Enthusiast

AKW

Posted
Posted

I think this is the right thread for this, I am sorry. =(

Okay, so I recently have had issues with the windows just going out of the car, no power on either side. Now, I have gotten so clever as to buy new switches, which I did.

So I have the new switches in, but no power windows and I had to test the power locks just because and, as I thought, they're not working either. So, if there is anything at all that controls the whole door(s) power and you know what is going on PLEASE shed some light. I love power locks, power windows, and a working car. -__-;;

My car is a series 1.5 with no amplifier box that I know about.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309831-no-power-to-door-accessories/
Share on other sites
mmm_goose Rookie

mmm_goose

Posted
Posted

On that topic, I can take the passenger window down from the driver's side controls but not up so I have to use the passenger control. What's the deal with that? Also, if I push lightly on the door trim, the interior light comes on and the door open warning light comes on.

.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted
On that topic, I can take the passenger window down from the driver's side controls but not up so I have to use the passenger control. What's the deal with that? Also, if I push lightly on the door trim, the interior light comes on and the door open warning light comes on.

the trigger on the up is prob faulty.. not getting connection.. prob easiest thing to do is replace the whole switch..

check around where your "button" is that turns your int. light on and make sure the door trim is attached properly/anything unusual.. could poss have a trigger height problem and needs adjusting..

mmm_goose Rookie

mmm_goose

Posted
Posted
the trigger on the up is prob faulty.. not getting connection.. prob easiest thing to do is replace the whole switch..

check around where your "button" is that turns your int. light on and make sure the door trim is attached properly/anything unusual.. could poss have a trigger height problem and needs adjusting..

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

×
×
  • Create New...