Jump to content
SAU Community

Vic - 180sx Manual Turbo And Cheap $4000

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)

 Share

Recommended Posts

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

1989 Nissan 180SX CA10DET Manual Metallic Blue – no body damage – fair paint

This car was bought for my wife and need a few things doing for rego, I ran out of time and ended up getting another car as we needed transport in a hurry. the car was previously registered in VIC.

The following items have just been fitted

Brand new 18” wheels no marks

2 brand new 215 45 18 maxxis

GTIR turbo (largest bolt on factory turbo)

New castor rod bushes, new oil pressure switch, just serviced oil and coolant replaced

Brand new alarm, immobilizer and central locking fitted’

New Kakimoto 3 JDM muffler

Brand new coolant overfrow botte

Brakes are in good condition the car stops very well.

The clutch and gearbox are in very good condition, no crunches or work syncros. Diff is also in good nick.

The car handles VERY well thanks to a set of TIEN HA coilovers and good tyres on 18” rims.

Interior needs some work – the dash has some cracks but overall the plastics and seats are in good condition. VIP spec pimp wood grain steering wheel. Car comes with a SUPER PIMP SPEC double din Japanese stereo (not in photos) with more flashing lights than a Christmas tree.

P1000970.jpg

P1000971.jpg

P1000972.jpg

P1000973.jpg

P1000974.jpg

P1000975.jpg

P1000976.jpg

P1000977.jpg

P1000978.jpg

P1000980.jpg

P1000981.jpg

The car will probably need a few things for rego:

Rear seatbelts are buggered and need replacing

Spare wheel needs bolting down

other non rego things you may want to fix:

Fuel guage is inaccurate

Front bar needs minor fixing and fitting

I am listing everything that needs doing to try to help out potentail buyers. its a good little car that needs tidying up only.

Price: $4000 - no offers, no trades, no I have a broken commodore and 38 dollars.... $4000 its a fair price if you want a cheaper one you will have to buy a smashed auto non complied car.

pls call 0435 145 987

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...