Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok by now we have read th usual of lowlifes breaking into our cars. Mine is just another in the long list...

The fubard the passenger lock with screwdriver or scissors, got in, pulled everything out of cernter console and got sprung by ME.

jumped into their car and drove off

I proceeded to follow.

Engaged in an at-distance pursuit, ending in Coyone Street Gowrie. (I assumed the guise of a normal driver, melt into the traffic, no laws broken)

I withdrew because I wasnt familiar with the area.

Got numberplate, occupant description, car make/model. Went to Woden Police station, there was another lady in there giving statement that her car got broken into around the same time, she had a white serII R33 manual. got her cd's and ciggies gorne but the security got to her car befor they could disable the alarm.

Police actually have a list of known skyline breakers, will get back in contact with me tomorrow.

Now Im reseacrching paging alarm systems. and air compressors and slim-line truck horns

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309997-skyline-broken-into-woden-carpark/
Share on other sites

Bad luck Andrew.

Rather than installing a louder horn and hoping people who hear it will actually care, you are better off hiding a 120db piezo siren inside the cabin triggered by either an alarm or a simple timer circuit. No way anybody could sit inside your car while that was going off. Jaycar sell them.

Bad luck Andrew.

Rather than installing a louder horn and hoping people who hear it will actually care, you are better off hiding a 120db piezo siren inside the cabin triggered by either an alarm or a simple timer circuit. No way anybody could sit inside your car while that was going off. Jaycar sell them.

This would be good if I didn't occasionally set my alarm off while I'm sitting in my car..

I'd be interested in any info you could give on those John. I'd be very much keen on it, just don't know what I'm looking for lol...also yeah something on a timer, say, 30 seconds after initial alarm goes off would be good.

Obviously a quality alarm/immobiliser and GPS tracker are always the best option, but can be a bit pricey.

Unfortunately the guys who break into your car just to steal the stuff in your console and glovebox will often ignore the alarm going off, grab your stuff and take off anyway. Having a very, very loud siren inside the cabin is going to make that a very uncomfortable experience for them. As Giveway pointed out, it can also be painful for the owner if they trip the alarm by mistake.

It never ceases to amaze me though how many people don't have any security at all on their car, sure not everyone can afford a $1K system, but there are lots of cheaper options that are better than nothing. A simple immobiliser circuit can be built by anyone who can hold a soldering iron for about $20, or even less if you have the parts lying around.

Places like Jaycar have heaps of good stuff, you just need a basic knowledge of electronics and a bit of imagination. Not going to publish details here, but happy to give you some ideas via PM if anyone is worried about their ride.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...