Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Will Not Start.

Daboss

By Daboss,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Daboss Experienced

Daboss

Posted
Posted

Hey forum I am having a problem starting my car and wanted to get some other advice on it. I have an rb25det with the series two engine so no ignitor module. Mods that might affect startup are are pfc, z32 afm set in pfc, nismo 555 also set in pfc, q45 throttle body and brand new super spark coil packs. Here is the problem as I try to roll the car over it cranks but just will not start. I have power to the injectors and fuel pressure. Do not know if fuel is being delivered as I didn't remove any hoses but can smell the vapors as I try to crank. I checked the power to coil packs but got nothing. I wanted to know if at ignition on should there be a constant hot to the coil pack loom? Cause I turned the ignition to on and checked every wire coming from ecu loom to coil pack and none had voltage. I also did the check in the manual for continuity between certain ignition wiring and got nothing. So I was just wondering are there any other checks I can do to the ignition system to prove this is what is wrong?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310241-car-will-not-start/
Share on other sites
Daboss Experienced

Daboss

Posted
  • Author
Posted
what did you last change

when did it last start ok

I changed everything. Last started ok before rebuild. Did a complete rebuild. Put on new intake, new exhaust, new injectors, new computer, different harness, different turbo and throttle body. Everything else is ok by my test throttle body .4 volts at ignition, injectors have a constant hot and pulse when cranking the car, have fuel pressure all lines are installed correctly and can smell vapours when cranking didnt remove any fuel lines, but I think those fuel checks were enough. Only problem is at ignition on can't find a hot on coilpack plug from ecu. Thats why I think I have narrowed it down to ignition, and was wondering if when ignition on should you have a constant hot to one of the wires from ecu loom to coil pack loom. During sensor check on pfc got throttle voltage and 3.54 volts on wtb something.

BahamaSky Apprentice

BahamaSky

Posted
Posted
I changed everything. Last started ok before rebuild. Did a complete rebuild. Put on new intake, new exhaust, new injectors, new computer, different harness, different turbo and throttle body. Everything else is ok by my test throttle body .4 volts at ignition, injectors have a constant hot and pulse when cranking the car, have fuel pressure all lines are installed correctly and can smell vapours when cranking didnt remove any fuel lines, but I think those fuel checks were enough. Only problem is at ignition on can't find a hot on coilpack plug from ecu. Thats why I think I have narrowed it down to ignition, and was wondering if when ignition on should you have a constant hot to one of the wires from ecu loom to coil pack loom. During sensor check on pfc got throttle voltage and 3.54 volts on wtb something.

Da Boss, please put your stock or any other injectors in and change those yellow foolishness. I told you they are no good. Trust me on that. Once you do that you will be fine.

Sparta!

Daboss Experienced

Daboss

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Da Boss, please put your stock or any other injectors in and change those yellow foolishness. I told you they are no good. Trust me on that. Once you do that you will be fine.

Sparta!

Lol, I hear ya. The yellow foolishness good though they got stuck from just sitting up there, had emm flow tested an freed they all good now. So Any other ideas, Mr Sky, I tired a catching ride now and these sr20 guys running the streets now, "So I heard.", and skyline fellows demolishing the cars. I have it narrowed down to ignition cause when cranking I get no power aor signal at the plug that comes from the ecu. I think that part a the harness is fried.

BahamaSky Apprentice

BahamaSky

Posted
Posted
Lol, I hear ya. The yellow foolishness good though they got stuck from just sitting up there, had emm flow tested an freed they all good now. So Any other ideas, Mr Sky, I tired a catching ride now and these sr20 guys running the streets now, "So I heard.", and skyline fellows demolishing the cars. I have it narrowed down to ignition cause when cranking I get no power aor signal at the plug that comes from the ecu. I think that part a the harness is fried.

i was having the same simptoms as what you are explaining, try different injectors first and see how it goes.

Daboss Experienced

Daboss

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey there forum, need to ask another quick question found out that the wire harness I am using is from an automatic skyline and mines is a manual. Was told if I am using a manual transmission with this automatic harness I will have no ignition. Do you think that is the reason I am getting no ignition? If so what do I have to rewire in order to get ignition.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

yeah because different injectors will stop power going to the ignition coils :)

there is 3 wires into the ignition coil.

one will be thicker. this should be the ignition power.

you should be able to check the other 2 colour and see 6 of them that match at the ecu(loom)

these should have pulses when cranking, but you can only check with a led test light.

if there is no power to any of these wires when ignition on then there is your problem. get a multi meter and see if the thick ones all have continuity to each other. if they do and theres no power, try tapping into one of the thick wires and put a temporary 12v feed straight from the battery, then try cranking it again. see if it starts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • DraftySquash
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...