Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guy's,

Can anyone with first hand experience please tell me the protocol with regard to driving under the rally permit scheme? I have been told you need written approval from CAMS to drive said car , say to the repairer to prepare for that event. Below is an excerpt from Vicroads:

Conditions of Use

1. A Rally Permit is a 12 month Unregistered Vehicle Permit (UVP) which permits the use of a vehicle for the following purposes:

during approved rallies conducted by a club affiliated with a national motorsport organisation approved by VicRoads

ie associated transport stages of an approved rally

travelling to or from an approved rally

in testing the vehicle for an approved rally (letter from CAMS permitting test is required)

for reasonable travel to and from a place of repair and for reasonable testing to confirm repair

2. That the operator of the vehicle must be the holder of a:

current National Rally Licence (or higher level competition licence) or;

a current International Rally Licence

an alternative competition licence approved by VicRoads.

3. That a log book of a type approved by VicRoads is also maintained and carried in the vehicle when in use (CAMS logbooks are the only approved type).

4. That the permit is not transferable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310359-rally-permit-registration-victoria/
Share on other sites

sorry, I can't help re the vic rules (i have the equivalent in nsw).

just wanted to mention that all tarmac rallies in vic run under AASA rules which will be a problem for my reading of those rules

  • 7 months later...

can i ask why you went for RP instead of normal rego?

im planning on building another 33 gtr just not sure whether to buy a complianced gtr, transfer it then cage it up, or import an unregisterable car for race use.. im assuming RP allows for uncomplianced cars ye?

My car is fully Australian compliant, was Taswegian reg, however the chap I purchased the car from wanted to send the plates in? so no way registering VICROADS therefore Rally reg the only way to go ( probably safest with regard to very occasionally driving on road (always to the mechanic, mind) and hopefully not attracting attention with the boys in blue as they will see Rally Plate and it will register to them as a rally car not a caged performance car for the streets.

If it's a genuine rally vehicle, and not just a dodgy way to drive an illegal car on the streets, then head over to BMSC to find out more. http://www.bmsc.com.au/forums/

There have been several discussions about rally rego (these are gravel cars, but the tarmac rules may be similar as far as rego goes). I know that the Vic's seem to do some weird stuff when it comes to rally cars and legislation. You're more likely to strike people who have done the hard yards over at BMSC.

My car is fully Australian compliant, was Taswegian reg, however the chap I purchased the car from wanted to send the plates in?

Was it fully registered or only SI?

If it was SI the rego is non transferable and the plates would have had to be handed in upon change of ownership.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...