Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know what the maximum power limit of a standard RB26DET con rod is? At what point do they stretch/bend?

I have been offered a set to put into my RB25DET engine as an upgrade. So I need to know whether it's worth it.

Also you guys talk about Linished rods. Can someone explain what that is please?

Cheers Fellas :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31078-power-limit-of-rb26-rods/
Share on other sites

I am told by relable sources and have seen GTR's make 450rwhp + on standard rb26 rods.

I am currently building a rb26 and not sure yet whether to upgrade the rods or not. I think it would be more for security. And with the forged rod been lighter it should revv a bit more freely as well.

I can say from a hands on experience that rb26 and rb25 rods are world apart. they have different shape beam the egdes are different also thicker and the most important of all is that the rb26 rod carry a masive bearing end as comparo to an rb25. As for power capacity is all depends on how well u tuned it. But big numbers have been recorded.

Merli, one place that comes to mind is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=28130

Steve-SST, who has played with many RB25s and RB26s, is quite adamant that they are the same in most cases, just some RB25s came out with weaker rods, but it appears from his posts that most had the same rods as RB26.

Very interesting read!

I suppose it's quite possible, as all RB25 failures I've seen from excessive power levels have been piston related, which THEN leads to the rods punching holes through the block.

I'm not so sure about the claim that "but some RB 25s have weaker rods but a lot have GTR rods" though... That just seems very iffy and unlikely to me.

Either they all have the same rods or don't. Or all Series 2 and on have RB26-spec rods, or something like that. The claim of:

The only real way is to pull it down but some RBs respond very well to boost upgrades-Exhausts etc and some don't, the ones that don't tend to be the dog motor as the head flows less.

seems like it's based on not enough evidence to me, and based on one or two RB25s grenading and resulting opinion that it had "weaker rods than the rest" and was a "dog motor"

But I suppose Steve-SST has seen a lot more RB25s than I have, so dunno.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...