Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have one serious question, please excuse my ignorance and give me a constructive answer if one is needed :) Why do most of us want/need an aftermarket boost gauge? The factory item goes up to 1.5 bar, and I and probably most others don't plan to run much more than 1 bar without some serious engine mods, so why do so many people want aftermarket gauges?

I had one on my car when I got it, but it was half-blocking the tacho and I found myself bouncing off the redline way too often because I couldn't see it! So I took it out, plugged up the extra vacuum line hole and have been using the dash one and the digital readout on the boost controller ever since. They both match up almost perfectly too. At 0.8 bar on the Greddy box, reading about halfway to 7 on the dash gauge.

JimX.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53470
Share on other sites

Originally posted by JimX

I have one serious question, please excuse my ignorance and give me a constructive answer if one is needed :) Why do most of us want/need an aftermarket boost gauge? The factory item goes up to 1.5 bar, and I and probably most others don't plan to run much more than 1 bar without some serious engine mods, so why do so many people want aftermarket gauges?  

JimX.

I always thought the boost gauge built in standard on my dash just went to 7psi?

I have a Greddy Recall boost gauge. I have different options of how i wanna view my gauge. I can view boost in real time eg exactly what boost i am pumping out right now or i flick it to memory and it shows me the highest amount of boost i have used throughout my travel. Good for measuring how much boost i have coming through after winding up or down. It cam with the car but if you can get a Greddy recall boost gauge go for it it is pretty cool!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53520
Share on other sites

The factory boost gauge is way too slow to react to quick changes and spikes. I certainally would use it to set your bleed valve.

Plus the factory boost gauge isn't in psi. I think 7 on he factory gauge is somewhere around the 14psi mark.

If you want a after market boost gauge that looks factory, have a look at the VDO range. The 52mm ones have -20 Vac through to 25psi, are black faced, black bezel, white numbers and red needle.

I think they are around the $150 mark each.

I have a twin A pillar gauge holder in mine with a oil temp and boost gauge from VDO, and I'm always asked it is factory cause it blends in well with the dash.

But I've been thinking about moving them down to under the stereo....... Hmmmmm, not sure yet......

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53569
Share on other sites

Yeah as Jay95R33 said the factory gauge isn't in psi, it's in 100x mm of Mercury, and 7 of those I thought was around 1.5 bar but after double-checking the formula it's actually around 1 bar (13.535746 psi to be almost precise). So at max boost I must be getting a bit over halfway on my gauge. Anyway even at 1 bar it's good enough for me for the time being.

Jay95R33, I agree it's pretty slow to change, but I've also got my digital readout on the Greddy boost controller which is pretty much instantaneous.

I dunno, I think I will take the one I removed from my steering column and mount it on the A-pillar one day, but for the time being I don't see it as an essential item. I definitely wouldn't use the factory gauge to set anything up to precision, but I think for general driving it's good enough. As long as you're running 1 bar or less :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53594
Share on other sites

Some of you guys pay mega bucks for guages! Far out.....

I just bought a Speco boost guage. Its white faced, has a silver rim, goes to 30 psi, and 30 IN-Hg vac. It cost me $62.

Also bought the Speco chrome cup to go with it, this was $40.

Not bad I thought, considering i paid about $150 for the autometre boost guage I had in my old ET pulsar, with out the cup.... :D

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53661
Share on other sites

| hype^ |, no. But I have an electronic boost controller with a digital readout, and a dial to set it from the dash instead of the engine bay. Sure I would use my Autometer gauge to set the boost if I had to use the bleed valve but I don't think I'd leave it in there permanently. It was certainly in the most ridiculous spot when I got the car on top of the steering column, if I put it back it's going on the A-pillar.

Just over half on the factory gauge is about 0.6-0.7 bar I'm guessing. Exactly halfway *should* be around 0.5 bar (7psi), but it could just be a margin of error in the boost gauge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53872
Share on other sites

MIC, a good way to do it is find an uphill stretch of road where you can load up the engine in 3rd gear. At 5000 rpm thiis is pretty quick so chose your road wisely.

HYPE, if you have the standard boost control (factory) you will get an increase in boost at around 4500 rpm to about .8 bar/11 psi/570 mmHg. Below that you will only get around 7 psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-54402
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...