Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1991 Toyota soarer

300rwkw with dynosheet

256/264 hks cams

upgraded twin turbos to Garrett GT28 made to fit in existing CT12 housings (looks stock)

turbo back Lews exhaust system

650cc Sard injectors

bosch fuel pump

Emanage Ultimate tuned by Cihan Aday (well known for fantastic work on 1jz motors)

enormous 100mm thick FMIC

Bilstein suspension

Torsen LSD

Gearbox rebuilt by MV autos plus shift kitted and oil cooler fitted

19 inch konig unknowns 235 wide front 265 rear,

2k worth of audio, head deck amp 7x10's etc foldout tv screen in dash, dvd player hidden in glove box, reverse camera,

bucket seats

Mechanically A1 just completed service including brand new steering rack and suspension bushes plus usual service oils etc.

Only selling as i use a motorbike for transport now and have no use for this

Too much to list

Call Karl 0450095794

post-10184-1268035395_thumb.jpg

post-10184-1268035404_thumb.jpg

post-10184-1268035416_thumb.jpg

post-10184-1268035423_thumb.jpg

post-10184-1268035432_thumb.jpg

post-10184-1268035444_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311148-300rwkw-toyota-soarer-11000/
Share on other sites

cant seem to edit original post but here is the full specs list he sent me. The first post was just off the top of my head.

Engine & Drivetrain:

Apexi Power Intake Kit

HKS adjustable cam gear (Exhaust side)

HKS 256in 264ex Cams

Stage 1.5 MV Shift Kit & Tranny Cooler

New Toyota Coil Packs

Torsen 4.08 LSD

Engine Management:

Emanage Ultimate with 3bar map sensor & plug in harness tuned by Cihan Aday (well known for fantastic work on 1jz motors)

AEM Wideband sensor

Fuel System:

650cc SARD injectors

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

Turbo System:

ATS Hybrid Turbo's (Garrett 2560R's in CT12A Housings)

Apexi AVCR

Turbo XS Type H-RFL BOV

300x600x115 FMIC with polished 2.5" piping (enormous)

Suspension & Wheels:

TRD Bilstein Shockers

Braided Stainless Brake Lines

19" Konig Unknown's with 245 front & 275 rear

Interior:

Supra Front Seats

LCD rearview from UZZ31

Autotecnica Sports Steering Wheel

AVC-R moulded into ashtray

Embroided handbrake cover

Exterior:

Explosion front & side skirts Vertex rear lip

Rear Guards Rolled

ICE:

Indash 7" screen

Clarion MP3 deck with USB input

Kenwood 6” splits

Kenwood 7x10 speakers

4 Channel Amp

Reversing Camera

Electronics:

Apexi RSM

Autometer boost gauge

Alarm & immobiliser

Turbo Timer

6000K HID kit

Exhaust:

Marlew Dump Pipes (complete twin custom system)

Twin 2.5" Marlew Exhaust with 2 high flow metal cats

Has Sunroof, wood grain and all the other usual GT-TL additions…Rear spoiler has been removed, and a custom high mount stop light fitted.

Last dyno tune put the car at 299.3rwkw @ 20psi. The car has travelled 211,000km’s.

Mechanically A1 just completed service including brand new steering rack and suspension bushes plus usual service oils etc.

Too much to list

only selling as i ride a motorbike for transport now and have no use for this

Call Karl 0450095794

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...