vkadam

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Brakes are sold. Other items still available.

R34 GTT parts Stock suspension $100 stock cams $150 Stock front brakes $350 Tuneagent manifold suit topmount 3076R $150 R34 radiator overflow $10 Canberra

R34 GTT parts Stock suspension $100 stock cams $150 Stock front brakes $350 Tuneagent manifold suit topmount 3076R $150 R34 radiator overflow $10

Thanks for all the people checking that I was ok as well as the inquiries. Looks like the car is now SOLD.

Sorry for the lack of replies guys my email notifications are not working. When I logged in I got the following message: A recent email that we've sent to you has been rejected for SPAM reasons. It may be that your email provider has rejected this or that a 'spam' button has been clicked in your email client. SAU Community offer full control over which emails you receive, these can be configured inside your User CP.

Hey mate The box is still in the car. If you wanted it I would sell it, but you would have to remove it yourself at this stage because I cannot lift anything heavy yet. I would not have the strength to pull the gearbox out. That is why at this stage my first preference is to sell the whole car as one. In a month or two I should be able to remove everything from it, which I will do if the car has not sold.

Hey guys Thanks for the inquiries and PMs. I am still at this stage trying to sell the whole car as one. However if it does not sell after a few more weeks I will get back to everyone with prices of individual items. Regards Adam

Were fine before the crash. I will ask old mate next time I am over at AFP.

Yea not too bad Thanks Not impounded just at the crash investigation centre. Which parts are you interested in? I was trying to sell the wreck whole, however the bigger the item and the more $$$ I can recoup, the more I would be interested in separating parts out.

Thanks. Located in Canberra.

Wrecked R34 GTT HTA3076 twin scroll rebuilt gearbox E85 fuel setup R34 GTT wreck Car has a lot of great parts on it with very low klms HTA3076 with Sinco twin scroll manifold and two turbosmart external gates along with screamer pipes and dump - fitted may 2016 (Amazing turbo, Total cost $5000+ Had to buy the turbo then get the twin scroll housing separately from GCG then get screamer pipes and dump made up) rebuilt rb25 gearbox (have receipt for $3800 from last year - very low klms) Big fuel set up - ID1600cc injectors, 1000hp external fuel pump, surge tank - all suited for E85 (Injectors were $1200 by themselves) power fc ARP head stud kit, Nitto head gasket, Tomei type B cams, performance valve spings - fitted august 2016 Greddy radiator Wilwood big front brakes (I believe around 350mm? - require an 18" wheel minimum) RB25 Neo internally standard Those are the parts I can think of right now. My preference is to sell the whole car as is. This is due to the fact that I fractured my humerus in the crash, otherwise I would part it out. If I cannot sell it whole, I will store the car for a while until my arm gets better and take all the parts off and sell them separately. Asking $8000 which I think is a pretty good deal when you consider just the cost of the turbo kit and gearbox were actually higher than this by themselves.

Hey I was happy with how the car drove as it was. It was a massive improvement over the previous setup and no further changes were made. The car has since been crashed. I will be trying to sell the car as is and if it does not sell, I will part it out. The car has some really nice parts on it and rebuilt gearbox with very low klms so I am sure someone can get some good use out of the parts.

I had a look and could not find any boost leak. Took it back to the workshop and they said that there was no boost leak and that boost drops off because it is wheel spinning on the dyno, resulting in less load. They took a pic after the dyno run. I have lost interest a bit in the car to be honest.

Thanks for the tips guys. I will follow up. Will try to get a boost reference after the intercooler and might even try to get a dyno run with the exhaust off and see if that makes any difference and then I will know not only if the cat is creating resistance but the exhaust itself, as I am not sure on the actual model.

boost controller is a greddy profec b spec 2. Unsure on exhaust. I believe it is a 3" but don't know what brand or cat.

The intercooler was on the car when I got it, but just had a look and it is a hybrid intercooler. It measures 600*300 so guessing it could be a hybrid gt2.

Hey, no offence taken. Just acknowledging that yes there is room for improvement on my set up and also that R34Geeteetee and Lithium were the ones to discover the potential of these HTA turbos on RB25s. Hmm ok. When I was at the workshop that tuned the car about 12 months ago before the HTA turbo went on, they mentioned some feature or other in the newer ECUs (Link/Vipec I think) which potentially helped to bring the car on boost sooner. I can't remember what it was, but it was not anti-lag. Maybe that is not the case. If anyone has any ideas as to why it does not spool as quick as R34Geeteetee's then I am all ears. First thing will be to try and find out why it won't hold boost.

Yes I am aware of those results, the whole reason I bought that turbo was based on advice from 34geeteetee and Lithium. In my original post I actually reference and link to 34geeteetee's thread and you can see my posts in that thread too. So full credit goes to 34geeteetee and Lithium in terms of discovering/recommending that turbo. Like I said, the first thing on my list of things to do with the car is get the boost leak fixed, but I have not been in a huge rush as until I get the alignment fixed up and fit better tyres I cannot put the power down anyway. All these things require me to spend more money on the car and will come in time as my focus has largely been on other things for the past few months. Without the boost leak it may spool up quicker as boost won't be escaping. Will it spool up as quick as 34geeteetee's set up? Who knows. From memory he had a much newer/more advanced ECU which may have helped him. He also had a flex fuel sensor which might mean they could lean on it harder as it will detect exactly what ethanol content the fuel is. From memory he also had a plazmaman plenum and throttle body, although from what I have read this is unlikely to make the difference. My point is that there has been lots of time and $$$ spent on his car getting it to that level. With mine a lot of the parts such as the ECU, intercooler, exhaust, boost controller etc have been carried over from the previous owner's 250rwkw set up. So the purpose of me replying to this thread was not to say that the setup I have is the be all and end all, but just to show a direct comparison from the old garret with tuneagent manifold to the HTA twin scroll. The new turbo set up has made a massive difference but there are obviously more changes that could further optimize the set up, as we know it won't hold boost and the turbo should be more than capable. I was just driving the car as is, however re posting in this thread has peaked my curiosity again, so I will try and fix the boost leak issue once and for all and get it dynoed again maybe some time in October.

Went with the .83 twin scroll The manifold was sinco and used two turbosmart 40mm comp gates. The workshop also put in a Nitto Head gasket, ARP head studs and Performance valve springs. Also put 1600cc injectors in and retuned. For some reason my 1000ccs were at a pretty high duty cycle at only 320 rwkw. DaleFZ1 - Thanks for your advice in this thread, appreciate it. I do not have pics, however if you are interested I could take some. Laurelpower and dosepipe sutututu- yea I will try and find where the boost leak is occurring. If it ran 22 or 24 psi to redline it would have to be getting close to 400kw, so that would be good. However at the moment I can't really put that power to the ground effectively. Plans for the car are: - get boost leak fixed - flare rear guards - alignment to reduce negative camber in rear - new wider and grippier rear tyres Car currently has 18x10 +15 on the rear with stock guards not even rolled and there is very little clearance. It currently has ksport coilovers that came with the car and are relatively hard. It does look to have some negative camber which means it never scrubs. I am hoping if I roll and flare the rear guards I can run less negative camber without scrubbing and get much better traction without spending too much more money. Traction at the moment is really lacking.

here is the new sheet. At 115 klms per hour it makes about 290 rwkw. So it made a pretty big difference. Also the torque is way up. At 95 klms on the old turbo it made 150nm whereas with the new turbo it makes 300nm at 95klms.

here is the old turbo dyno sheet. At 115klms per hour it makes around 180rwkw.

Hey sorry for the late reply. I did end up purchasing the twin scroll housing and getting a workshop to fit it all up and tune it. The car will not hold boost and drops back to 16psi at redline for some reason (down from 22 psi, it did the same thing with my old 3076). However it still makes 353 rwkw at that 16 psi. It is a totally different car to drive. At the same rpm where it used to make under 200rwkw it now makes almost 300 rwkw. Compared to what I had before (garrett 3076 .63 with a tuneagent manifold) it now almost feels like going back to a car with the stock turbo down low.

R34 GTT stock front brake calipers and rotors Rb25 Neo stock cams Ofers

Dyno sheet will not upload in this thread I keep getting an error but it is on the very last post on this page: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426059-forced-performance-hta-turbos/page-15 Quite laggy for a 3076 0.63