Jump to content
SAU Community

Long Or Short Rb26 Motor For Sale

BK
 Share

Recommended Posts

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

Hi again

As we speak I have a really tough RB26 being completed. Was going to keep as my spare drag motor but just spent enough rebuilding my current motor. Would rather sell than having it sit around. I can sell as a short or long motor depending on what you want and can ship anywhere. Specs of long motor are as follows:

RB26 short motor with:

R32/33 sump complete with oil pickup and front 4.11 diff

Crack tested and X rayed RB26 block rebored 20 thou oversized (0.5mm. Takes capacity to 2599cc)

Crack tested and balanced R32 crankshaft with JUN oil pump drive collar fitted

New Crower steel billet conrods (the best money can buy) balanced to within 1 gram

New 86.5mm CP forged pistons with CP rings and oversized gudgeon pins

New King racing bearings for big end and mains (look them up. top fuellers use them. tolerances second to none)

Nissan N1 oil pump

Tomei 1.5mm block oil restrictor

No water pump because of R32 or R33 fitment (they're different)

Long motor additions if required:

Tomei 1.2mm metal head gasket

RB26 head complete with reset valve clearance

Will include Xtreme single plate 9 puck ceramic clutch pull type with flywheel (done 5000km) bolted up if buying long motor (if using pull)

Can also include standard twin turbo manifolds if required

Am asking around $8500 ono for long motor or $6500 ono for short motor.

Can discuss price depending on what you want fitted, I am flexible. (eg. no sump/diff, no head ect.) Shipping may even be free depending on location but will definitely be reduced over cost price. Am willing to accept deposits and pay off engine before delivery also.

All balancing and prep work done by Rick Corbett engineering in Adelaide and assembled by Lyle King in Alice springs who is a gun on RB26 engine assembly (Has over 40 years in engine assembly - done many high HP japanese engines - GTR, SUPRA ect). Has done my current R32 with the same bottom end combo as above and has made over 500kw at wheels on 30 psi boost. Already done 10.7 on low power/boost and hoping to do 9's this year. This is as tough a bottom end as it gets without going a billet $10000 crank (which isn't needed as Mark Jacobsen uses a balanced stock crank!)

I can be contacted on 0401 779 905 at anytime for anymore questions. Motor will be ready within the month (still at Rick Corbett engineering sizing pistons to rebored block right now) This is a great deal and a brand new bottom end that'll have to be run in. Why buy a used bottom end with an unknown amount of kms when you can have this. Will post pics in the next two weeks.

Cheers everyone

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311427-long-or-short-rb26-motor-for-sale/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...