Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by skyzerr33

hey need to know if theres any problems related to this combo?

and will a safc fix it?

i have been told of people having problems with fuel and boost cut due to fmic while using a stock ecu.

any help appreciated.

I've got the stock ic and recently ran 14+psi (15psi spike) no fuel cut issues.

I think if the ic is sized very well the extra horsepower potential may exceed the Air Flow maximum allowed by the stock ecu. More hp = more airflow = ecu dummy spit.

A big ass ic will create some lag if its oversized for the turbo and reduce overall flow efficiency. If you are running an ic rated a 600hp and you have a 300hp turbo you might make less power than stock AFC or not. Having said that at least if you decide to circuit race you will keep the power at maximum all day.

rev you make a good point that alot of people dont really under stand. having the biggerst cooler isn't great if you only want say 3 or 400 hp my cooler is (core only) 500 x 280 x76 if you look at most of the apexi etc coolers they are are similar size untill you get up to the big one for 600 hp +

meggala

Originally posted by meggala

rev you make a good point that alot of people dont really under stand. having the biggerst cooler isn't great if you only want say 3 or 400 hp my cooler is (core only) 500 x 280 x76  if you look at most of the apexi etc coolers they are are similar size untill you get up to the big one for 600 hp +

meggala

Yep, sounds like you have a very sensible sized ic megs. Building a "whole" performance package is the best way to go. Make a plan out starting with what sort of measured performance you want and design the car around that concept.

If you want a turbo that can wack out 200rwkw then get the kit that will do that with the best efficiency and you will get better mid range power (what is needed on the street).

I very much agree, howeva a big ass intercooler looks SIK! You know how much i'm into looks Megs! :)

The restrictiveness of the IC can also relate to its cooling abilities though right? I mean a very unrestrictive cooler may not cool very well cos the air goes through too quickly??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...