Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok stripping my cefiro.

if someone wants the shell they can have it for $200, its got heaps of bog in the rear quarters and looks pretty shit. rails are straight front end is straight. will come as a bare shell though, no hanging panels, no wiring, no tank no lights, except tails which you can have more than happy to help lift onto a trailer..

so that leaves :

doors 4x fronts 4x rears $40 each

front guards 2x left 2x right $30 each

bonnet good conditon just a bit of paint chipped off $80

boot good condition $60

6 bolt VLSD diff $180

front windscreen has a large crack in it.

rear screen is good, send me a PM if your after it.

GKtech front pipe $50, used for approx 2 weeks, but kept hitting the floor thanks to the catback sitting to high.

ive got heaps of random parts so if your after something particular send me a PM or SMS on 0450472446

i want this shit gone ASAP so any REASONABLE offer wont be refused!!

located in the parramatta area in SYDNEY for those who missed it.

Edited by esky_mad
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312613-stripping-cefiro/
Share on other sites

ok stripping my cefiro.

if someone wants the shell they can have it for $200, its got heaps of bog in the rear quarters and looks pretty shit. rails are straight front end is straight. will come as a bare shell though, no hanging panels, no wiring, no tank no lights, except tails which you can have more than happy to help lift onto a trailer..

so that leaves :

doors 4x fronts 4x rears $40 each

front guards 2x left 2x right $30 each

bonnet good conditon just a bit of paint chipped off $80

boot good condition $60

6 bolt VLSD diff $180

front windscreen has a large crack in it.

rear screen is good, send me a PM if your after it.

GKtech front pipe $50, used for approx 2 weeks, but kept hitting the floor thanks to the catback sitting to high.

ive got heaps of random parts so if your after something particular send me a PM or SMS on 0450472446

i want this shit gone ASAP so any REASONABLE offer wont be refused!!

located in the parramatta area in SYDNEY for those who missed it.

I need a LH rear quarter window Urgently. Are you able to help?

have front and rear bars, willing to post guards at your expense. ill have to get a window guy out to remove the rear quarter window, ive tryed taking them out before and just end up smashing them. send me a PM.

Front bar has been chopped up and had a lip screwed into it. was meant for a track car so its way out of place if you want it for a street car.

Yes ive got the drivers side rear door. the regulator assembly needs to be replaced i believe as when i pulled it off my old cefiro the window dropped.

Yes ive got a dash but its seen better days, no vents, the foam is lifting above the cluster section....

Front bar has been chopped up and had a lip screwed into it. was meant for a track car so its way out of place if you want it for a street car.

Yes ive got the drivers side rear door. the regulator assembly needs to be replaced i believe as when i pulled it off my old cefiro the window dropped.

Yes ive got a dash but its seen better days, no vents, the foam is lifting above the cluster section....

wat do u mean the regulator assembly needs to b replaced?

  • 1 month later...

Hey mate, i might be too late. but i'm after all the chrome strips from around the front windows doors and rear window? i got my car resprayed and the painter lost them all.

could you PM me if you could? i dont get on here often.

thanks

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...